Church's Chicken - Humble, TX

With Mrs. CFS working late one night, and the Tater Tot and myself needing sustenance for two, I ventured out to Church’s Chicken for a quick, salty meal. I never would have thought Church’s had CFS (which they call Country Fried Steak) but for a commercial I had seen earlier in the week advertising their new CFS meal. Being a curious and hungry fellow, I decided to give it a chance.

As many are, this Church’s was attached to a Valero gas station. This was a bit of a problem because I had boycotted this Valero for it’s generally gross appearance and skanky clientele (along with the hard core pornography open on display inside, not that I’m a prude or anything). Inside this Church’s was pretty much like most others – reasonably clean and primarily serving as a shortcut to getting into the Valero station snack shop.

CFS: I wasn’t expecting much and I got it. The steak was a chopped, pre-processed patty, although it did have a bit of bite. Generally, though, it was pretty flavorful.

Breading: A thin, “Shake ‘n Bake” layer of breading held it together. It was pretty crispy and held up to the gravy well. It had a nice hint of pepper which made it nice.

Gravy: My order taker gave me a choice between white or jalapeno gravy. Having seen the jalapeno advertised in their commercial (and enjoying a good jalapeno), I couldn’t resist. It actually was pretty good, with a good balance of creaminess, pepper and heat. I might try to recreate this!
Sides: The meal came with two sides (no choices): mashed potato and corn on the cob. The mashed potato wasn’t bad, similar to what you’d find at Popeye’s or KFC. It had a nice salty potato flavor and a thin brown gravy on top. It was formed into a perfect circle, so much so that I hesitated to disturb the perfect orb. The corn on the cob had a wooden stick in it (for easy eating) and came wrapped in a little yellow bag. It was very soggy suggesting it was probably boiled. The tot liked it, though, as he is a corn aficionado.

Price: An astounding $4.99 for the meal ($2.99 without the meal).

Service: Efficient if not a little curt. I cut her some slack since working at Church’s connected to a gas station can’t be that rewarding.

Music: none.

For fast food CFS “on the go,” this wasn’t all bad. It was certainly not as bad as I expected. I’ll probably not seek it out again, but in a pinch or during a late night CFS binge, I’ll no doubt be stopping there again.

Dixie Cafe (Johnny Reb's) - Hearne, TX

Chicken Fried Road Trip: College Station (3 of 3)

Wrapping up my trip north, I consulted Google for quality CFS in the Bryan-College Station area. Dixie Café’s name kept coming up – this was for very good reason. To preview: this was the best CFS I’ve had on this journey so far. It is not to be missed.

The interior is a standard diner with an eclectic mix of customers – farmers, travelers, business people, high schoolers (and everybody was happy). Texas Monthly actually listed the Dixie Café in their “40 best Diners” issue (see earlier post) and noted that the décor was “confederate.” I believed this substantially to not bring in my New York Times to read (it being a Communist paper), but other than the Confederate flags on the shirts, I didn’t see evidence of confederate décor.

The CFS: Very, very good. The steak (cubed sirloin) was soft and had the right amount of chew.

Breading: Southern style. Thick, crumbly and tasty. The was a nice hint of buttermilk and pepper.
Gravy: Thick and white. A classic CFS gravy with good hint of pepper and cumin. It came served on the CFS.

The balance of all of the flavors and textures was excellent. Each element was in perfect harmony and brought another layer of enjoyment to the dish.

Knife: A bigger than average steak knife was used and it was appropriate.

Sides: I picked the okra and the mashed potatoes. The okra was disappointing as it was cold and a bit mushy. The mashed potatoes were fantastic – a great garlicy flavor, good pepper and skins in.

Cost: $12.99. Higher than CFS on average but well worth it.

Service: Very good. The waitresses buzzed around the café and kept the iced tea (sweetened) filled and the sides coming.

Music Selection: Probably none. Just the hum of a busy restaurant at lunch time.

The worst part about the meal was that I had to drive three hours home wanting to take a nap and unsure about when I’d be back. Who would have thought heaven was off Highway 6 in Texas? My only regret was not saving room for pie.

http://www.dixiecafe.com/

CFS, New York Style

The New York Times has praised the cube steak today noting that it’s a cut of meat that’s returning to vogue (http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/04/dining/04steak.html?8dpc). They even include a recipe for chicken fried steak: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/04/dining/041srex.html. But, here in Texas, it never went out of style (and we don’t hyphenate “chicken fried” steak).

Ken Martin’s Safari Grill – Bryan, TX

Chicken Fried Road Trip: College Station (Part 2 of 3)

Seeking sustenance after a long day, I journeyed to Ken Martin’s Safari Grill. With only hunger as my guide, I sought to eat a third CFS in as many days. The place is tucked away in north Bryan in a grouping of office buildings and apartments.

There isn’t anything particularly “safari” about the restaurant other than the fact that the booths have a jungle animal print and the walls are staked with occasional tiki torches. The menu is pretty standard diner/café fare– no exotic animals available on the menu.

The CFS: Not good. The steak had a bit of an odd odor and the taste was a bit off. The steak was sufficiently juicy and chewy but the flavor was just not right, so I chose not to finish it. It also appeared to be pre-cooked and came out to my table minutes (say, six) after I ordered it. So, either my reputation had preceded me or it was ready to go even if I had come in hours earlier.

Breading: Southern style. It was a little hard, making it difficult to cut properly. The taste was fine but nothing memorable.

Gravy: The pride of the house, according to the waiter. It was yellow (yellow like the yellow sunset picture on the menu, according to my waiter). But, it was flavorless (like the sunset picture on the menu). I’ve had yellow gravy before which was good, but this version was not good. It was nearly tasteless and added virtually nothing to the dish.

Knife: A more sizable steak knife was brought – useful for cutting through the tough outer shell of the breading.

Sides: Choose two – I chose the green beans and mashed potatoes. The beans were from a can and a bit on the soggy side (even for beans from a can). The potatoes were actually pretty good, lumpy, well seasoned and the hint of an occasional skin. But, they were slathered with the infamous yellow gravy, making them less appealing. Still, after abandoning my CFS, I happily finished my starch.

Cost: $ 6.99 plus a dinner salad for $ 1.99. Not a bad price (if the food were good).

Service: Very nice! My waiter was helpful, efficient, gracious and enthusiastic. It’s not his fault the food was bad. I felt bad knowing I would write a bad review, so I tipped him big (also it occurred to me that they wouldn’t be in business much longer).

Music Selection: None.

No sense dwelling on it, but this was the worst CFS of my still young quest. I’ve never been on safari, but if this is the food one receives, I’m happy to stay in Houston.

3231 E. 29th St.; Bryan, TX 77802
(979) 776-7500

Chicken Oil - College Station, TX

Chicken Fried Road Trip: College Station (Part 1 of 3)

This entry is part of a three-part series on a road trip to College Station (homebase to all you Aggies).

I pulled into town on an empty stomach and dreams of creamy and tasty CFS for a hundred miles. On my trip to BCS (Bryan-College Station for those of you who aren’t Aggies), I decided to stop first at Chicken Oil to sample their CFS.

Chicken Oil is an alternative location to the popular Dixie Chicken watering hole and is more accessible for non-college students.

The outside and inside look like a several dozen old gas stations were smushed together. Oil and gas signs from every once established, long since gone and even a few current petrol companies. The floors are hard wood and creak with age. The wood tables are carved with the names, dates, slogans, proverbs, advice and nonsense of thousands of patrons who’ve enjoyed Chicken Oil.

The CFS: Tasty and warm. Just what I was looking for. Still, it was a little dry on the outside, even though the steak (cube steak) was chewy and juicy.

Breading: Hand formed breading, but hand formed breading from perhaps hours before. There wasn’t much love in the breading and it tasted a bit dried out. It wasn’t flaky or crumbly like I like it. It did, however, hold the CFS together.

Gravy: The gravy came in a little cup on the side (no other option was given). It was white and peppery but otherwise lacked flavor. It tasted like it needed a little broth, salt or heat (cayenne?). In any case, it didn’t exactly satisfy.

Knife: Standard kitchen knife provided and appropriate.

Sides: No choices. It came with Texas toast (surprise), salad and a bag of french fries. All were good but the toast was especially good: lightly toasted on the outside and soft in the middle. I could eat a whole loaf.

Cost: $ 6.49 for the small (and it was small). Overall, considering the whole plate, a satisfying meal and a satisfying price.

Service: Counter walk up service. Friendly but disinterested. Well, A&M hasn’t had such a good football season (compared to Texas Tech, Texas or Oklahoma), so I grant a little sadness.

Music Selection: Old country (Ray Price, Kenny Rodgers and I thought I heard a Patsy Cline).

While I chose not to add my mark to the table at which I was sitting, I enjoyed my visit to Chicken Oil. Still, while obviously popular, the CFS felt like a bit of an afterthought at Chicken Oil. This really is a burger and fries joint and a darn good one at that.

http://www.dixiechicken.com/chickenoil/

Jax Grill - Houston, TX

Located just south of I-10 on Sheperd is Jax Grill, mixed among several other well-known Houston culinary hot spots (Mission Burrito and Cadillac Bar). After a morning of exploring the city, Mrs. CFS, Tater Tot and myself popped in for a little homestyle goodness.

Jax Grill seems like more of a sports bar than restaurant (and the quality of the CFS reflects this). There is a wealth of sports related gear on the walls and several TVs for viewing of the pigskin. The menu appears geared towards this crowd with several “baskets” and “platters” of fried goodness.

CFS: OK. It was juicy and the tenderness of the meat was good. But, several bites tasted “off” and the odor was not pleasant (a big pet peeve of mine). This tended to ruin the experience a bit.
...A side tasting of Mrs. CFS’s CFC also didn’t impress. The chicken was juicy but the taste was a bit off and it didn’t have enough chicken flavor for my liking.

Breading: Nice – fluffy but crunchy. Southern style, it had a light brown color and held up well to the thick gravy. It did not stick particularly well to the steak, but I won’t complain since I can’t get mine to stick either.

Gravy: A very creamy white sauce. It was velvety and almost cheesy. It tasted fresh (in a diary way) but lacked a depth of flavor. It tasted as though too much heavy cream was used and not enough seasoning (although there was a hint of something subtle like tarragon).

Sides: The meal came with only French fries as a side. The fries were good – nicely salted and crispy. Abandoning my CFS, I discovered that the ketchup / gravy mix on the fries was a nice combo (…patent pending).

Price: $7.95 for lunch (it was listed as $8.45 on the big menu board, so perhaps the price came down or the lunch special was cheaper). For the amount of food, this was a good deal.

Service: Walk up counter service and orders picked up separately. This was efficient and the food came out quickly.

Music: Only the cacophony of the wait staff moving chairs and tables for the impending Texans game.

I’d probably go back to Jax Grill to watch a game or suck down some chicken wings. But, I’ll stay away from the CFS.

http://www.jax-grill.com/

1613 Shepherd Dr.Houston, TX 77007(713) 861-5529

Old Mill Inn - Dallas, TX

Chicken Fried Road Trip: Dallas

(Part II)

After a long day of learning and exploring at the museums of Fair Park with tater tot, we were hungry for sustenance. Fortunately, there is a Dallas institution a few steps from the museums and nestled in the heart of Fair Park. So, I talked Chicken Fried Family into a lunchtime visit (it wasn't hard).

The Old Mill Inn’s exterior resembles a quaint old mill and the inside reminds one of a large diner. We practically the only people in the restaurant and we got a great deal of attention from the welcoming staff.

The CFS: It was tough and overcooked. The meat was dense and hard to chew, like an old shoe. This made for an unpleasant bite.

Breading: Despite the toughness of the meat, the breading was good. Southern style with a nice deep brown color.

Gravy: A white, cream gravy. Nothing remarkable but it was a good compliment to the dish.
Knife: Standard kitchen knife provided, but given the density of the meat, something more on the order of a chainsaw was needed.

Sides: Choose two. I chose mashed potatoes (which were good but nothing special) and the black eyed peas. The black eyed peas were simply amazing. Of course, being close to New Years Day and being a Texan, it’s tradition to eat them. But, these rightfully should be eaten every day. They were cooked in a wonderful broth with ham (or ham hocks) giving the beans an amazing flavor.

Cost: $ 10.99. Not a bad price, if the meal was cooked properly.

Service: Superb! The staff, especially our waitress, were so friendly and exceptionally welcoming. Our waitress swapped stories about being a grandmother with Chicken Fried Mother and was friendly and gracious with the tot, even as he demanded macaroni and cheese.

Music Selection: None.

The Old Mill Inn is a treasure and worth a visit. I’d recommend it, but ask for your CFS to be cooked medium.

3611 Grand Avenue, Dallas.