Chicken Fried Texas

The Monument Inn - La Porte, TX

2012-01-05T14:49:00.001-08:00

Visiting the San Jacinto Monument is a treat. The grounds are great for strolling and the museum in the base of the monument is chock full of historical goodies.

If only we could combine this experience with a tender CFS... The Monument Inn give us the opportunity. Located at the end of the Texas Independence Highway, the Inn has a big menu and a rather sophisticated dining room.

The CFS was a little disappointing. The breading was a little thin (and cold) and became soggy under the gravy. However, the flavor of the steak and the gravy together was very good, salty and savory. The steak was tender and moist.

The lunch plate came with salad and potato product. I chose fresh fries, which were excellent. Brussels sprout agreed and munched several whole fries for the first time.

Given how much I love the Monument and how often we go, no doubt the Inn will be in rotation. I plan to try the fried fish and the burger next, which various members of the chicken fried family tried.

Confusing Fried Steak

2011-11-02T05:55:00.000-07:00

This is an odd development.

Blogging the Fair (early evening)

2011-10-21T14:11:00.001-07:00

After seeing many of the best livestock Texas has to offer, we decided to partake in some if their kin, chicken fried style.

Just outside the pig exhibit was a revelation: chicken fried bacon. It was salty, as you can imagine but surprisingly good. The bacon was nicely fried and it was nice and flat. Ranch dressing (out of a pump) was provided, but we passed.

The crispy ends were the best part. Only Oinkus T. Pig (won by Tater Tot on the midway) objected.

Blogging the Fair (late afternoon)

2011-10-21T14:03:00.001-07:00

A taste of fall. Fried pumpkin pie. A delicious and creamy and light filling of pumpkin pie mix, topped with whip cream and some powdered sugar (the official garnish of the Fair).

Tater tot proclaimed it as his favorite of the Fair. Worth battling the growing crowd to get to.

Blogging the fair (late afternoon)

2011-10-21T13:58:00.001-07:00

Indulging Mrs. CFT and tater tot's love of sweets, we grabbed a basket of fried brownies. The perfect balls were chocolatey and gooey with a nice hint of almond. The balls were drizzles with caramel sauce and chocolate powder.

The trend has been that the little plastic forks are inadequate for cutting (and sharing) the fried goodies. Better to use your hands and get them in single bites.

Blogging the Fair (afternoon)

2011-10-21T13:52:00.001-07:00

Working our way to the Texas Hall, and having not eaten in about half an hour, we stopped for water and... French fries. Smothered with chicken wing sauce, these things were addictive. Plus they came in a cone for easy and portable eating.

A 3 napkin dish.

Blogging the Fair (afternoon)

2011-10-21T13:47:00.001-07:00

Wandering through the Midway, just past the giant alligators, I found fried tamales. Skeptical but intrigued, I put my 7 tickets down and bit in.

The balls were a bit dry on the outside but moist in the middle. The filling was a spicy riced tamale. It came with seven and that was plenty for a quick fix.

Blogging the Fair

2011-10-21T13:41:00.001-07:00

One word: bananarito. A genius combination of bananas wrapped in a fried flat cinnamon churro, topped with a drizzle of chocolate, whip cream and a cherry.

Blogging the Fair

2011-10-21T11:06:00.001-07:00

We're visiting the Mecca of fried foods: the Texas State Fair!

First up: the iconic corny dog. Fletchers, of course, although the heavily publicized "foot long" corn dog was tempting.

The corny dog was excellent - hit and slathered with mustard. The outside was crunchy and the inside was fluffy and tender.

A good start.

Happy Junction General Store and Cafe - Garrison, TX

2011-10-14T12:30:00.001-07:00

Homeward bound on our trip up and down Texas Highway 59, we came across a place we couldn't help but stop at. Happy Junction perfect road food: right on the highway, home cooking, an assemblage of decorative (Texas) items and, most importantly, chicken fried steak.

The meal began with a really nice salad with home grown tomatoes. The addition of a welcome (if odd) sprinkling of Cheddar cheese made for a nice salty bite. The ranch dressing was brought to us in a bottle (left on the table).

The wait was a few minutes while the cook (perhaps the only person around for miles) fixed up our CFSs. This just gave us time to look around and study the eclectic mix of maps, old beer signs and Texas ephemera. It also gave us the chance to hit the bathroom, located outside in a separate part of the building, apparently built some time after the original structure.

The CFS was of the pre-packages sort, a but gummy and overly salty, but hit the spot nevertheless.

The french fries were excellent. They put a nice seasoned blend on it and they were substantial enough to soak up some of the gravy.

The food was nothing to write home about (the standards for blogging being much lower) but this was the perfect place to end our road trip. We'll stop I'm again when we're back in the neighborhood.

Dixie Diner - Texarkana, TX

2011-08-21T18:52:00.001-07:00

Continuing along Highway 59, Chicken Fried Father and I rolled into Texarkana late and looking for sustenance.

We again did a Google search for a place for grub -- although this worked out great in Nac, it didn't work so well in Texarkana. We came across the Dixie Diner for a late night supper.

Having three chicken fried steaks in as many days, I switched it up and ordered a chicken fried steak sandwich. The dish came with a side and rolls for a slightly inflated $9.95.

The rolls were fine and the cornbread was pretty good (even if a bit dry). I got the fried okra which were way overcooked, dried out and salty. I pity ate four more than I should have.

The CFSS was decent -- layered with tomato and lettuce (and some stolen gravy from Chicken Fried Father's CFS) it made for a nice dish. The steak was tender enough to bite through, critical for biting a sandwich. The flavor wasn't great, but in a sandwich this is forgivable. The pillowy bun was nicely toasted and could hold on to all the supporting cast which I included mayo and mustard.

Overall an uneven meal but it hit the spot after a long day of traveling. I'm not sure I'd go back but the menu was large and varied and the staff friendly (even for 9 pm on a Wednesday).

Butcher Boys - Nacogdoches, TX

2011-08-15T17:56:00.001-07:00

Continuing our road trip up and down the 59 highway, we rolled into Nacogdoches ("Nac") around lunchtime. I've always liked Nac when I've visited but never gotten to explore the town much. After strolling through the old downtown, including another in a series of unfortunately abandoned interesting theater, we did a Google search for CFS and Nac. This doesn't always work out well, but in this case it worked brilliantly.

The iPhone search turned up Butcher Boys, a large restaurant with an expansive menu. Since we had donuts about an hour earlier in Lufkin and since Chicken Fried Father is a senior citizen (but just barely), we ordered the $5.95 senior lunch: a CFS and a side.

Wow, what a deal. The CFS was amazing. The steak was so tender and had the perfect bite. There was so much flavor, even under the crispy breading and gravy. The gravy was perfect - great seasoning, flavorful and creamy.

We also ordered a side we haven't seen much in our travels: fried green tomatoes. The CGT were the perfect mix of tart and savory. Although they are often served with a ranch-type sauce, the absence of this on the plate made us even more appreciative of the flavor. (it even inspired us to buy some on the roadside in Tenaha, TX and make it at home).

I don't say this much, but this is among the best CFS in Texas. Go get some!

Fried Chicken?

2011-08-13T15:17:00.001-07:00

An email from a reader recently asked me about the best fried chicken in Texas. My favorite is Frenchy's in Houston (followed by Bar-B-que Inn in Houston) buy I want to hear what you all think. Leave comments below.

This certainly reminds me that there are more chicken fried items than just steak. This is fortuitous because the State Fair is just around the corner....!

The Hanging Tree - Goliad, TX

2011-08-13T15:01:00.001-07:00

Indulging our summer wanderlust, Chicken Fried Father and I hit the road to explore the culinary bounty of south and east Texas. This summer, we took Highway 59 north and south - Laredo to Texarkana.

Our love of Texas history matches our love for Texas vittles, so we stopped in Goliad for a lesson in Texas history. Nestled in a wonderful town square, we took lunch at The Hanging Tree, named for the actual tree where those found guilty of capital crimes outside the courthouse, which is across the street from the restaurant.

I had the chicken fried ribeye and it didn't disappoint. Pounded thin and packed with flavor, the CF'R' was tender (almost fork tender) and coated with a unique thin crust. The crust was more crispy than crunchy, a perfect compliment to the tender steak, anything more dense would upset the balance of textures. The broccoli was terrific - fresh and flavorful. The mashed potato, covered in the same gravy as the CFR, had great potato flavor and was well seasoned.

Although an unconventional choice, try the $3 upgrade to the chicken fried ribeye. There is more to 'chicken frying' than top round.

(Excuse any errors! I'm testing a new blogging by phone app.)

T-Bone Tom's -- Kemah, TX

2011-07-11T15:27:00.000-07:00

Let it be understood as a rule that any restaurant that has a giant sirloin outside it is likely to be a winner. T-Bone Tom’s doesn’t disappoint on this score (or any I could find).

The CFS is a hard-fried southern style that makes for a nice crunch, just about the consistency (and taste) of fried chicken. The sirloin (hence her giant friend outside) is nicely cooked and juicy. The surrounding gravy was a dense cream with a nice rich flavor. My impression was that it needed a little salt and a hint of pepper – adding a dash of each improved the balance of flavor.

I branched out and had the grilled tomato (standing in for my usual mashed potato) and it was worth it. It was a bit over salted but the tomato was so full of flavor that it packed a mean punch. The fried okra was a brilliant green, meaning the fried exterior wasn’t too dense as to mask the okra flavor. Combining the tomato and fried okra made for a terrific flavor, negating the slightly too salty tomatoes.

If you walk up and down the Kemah boardwalk 1,504 times afterwards, you can work off the meal. That will also give you time to figure out an excuse to find your way back to T-Bone Toms.

The Original Fried Pie Shop - Buffalo, Texas

2011-06-14T08:18:00.000-07:00

Fried. Pies. Even one of those two words should easily convince you to travel a few hours to Buffalo to partake.

Attached to a Mobil gas station, the Original Fried Pie Shop has lovely homemade pielets (you can see them rolling out the dough) which you can fill with savory or sweet (even options without sugar) options.

We chose the full octane sugar apple and lemon flavors. The pies were moist and perfectly flaky. This makes them wonderful but hard to eat in the car. The filling was flavorful but not overly sweet so that it obscured the fruit flavor. They stayed warm in their little packet for the 10 minutes we navigated traffic (and could manage to pretend like we didn't want to eat them right away).

Gordon Ramsey's "Fried Chicken Steak" Nightmare.

2011-05-24T06:49:00.000-07:00

On a recent episode of Kitchen Nightmares with rage-chef Gordon Ramsey, he sampled a CFS from Zeke's in Louisiana. I'm not sure he knows exactly what it is since he calls it "fried chicken steak" -- taken out of order, the words of the dish mean something different. Maybe it is a British thing.

Even so, it doesn't take a fancy culinary degree and and armfull of Michelin stars to see that this CFS was not going to be good. Chef Ramsey commented that is looked like a giraffe's tongue (which are technically blue, but whatever).

Sadly, the larger point is that this kind of CFS dish seems to be more the norm than the exception. We've all eaten this kind of tough, overcooked, flavorless and generally disappointing CFS. Maybe the art of making a simple and delicious CFS is a dying art as prices of food rise and standards fall; the kinds of places that make a CFS well are becoming fewer and rarer.

The CFS disappointment comes at about 9:40.

Beaver’s Ice House ― Houston, Texas

2011-04-29T12:35:00.000-07:00

Unique chicken fried steak is hard to come by, especially because the iconic dish remains tied to tradition and people are rooted in the CFS their grandmother made or the first time they ate a delightful plate of crispy, creamy goodness.

But, the eclectic Beaver’s Ice House does a terrific job at refining a very rustic dish. The “CFNYStrip” ($15) is a New York strip steak pounded to the texture of traditional sirloin. The texture was good, although the connective tissue often made for a chewy bite.

The mesh of flavors was excellent. The bacon mushroom gravy added an earthy and salty finish to an excellent bite. Perched on a cabbage and onion sauté, the dish jumps off the plate. The cabbage brought unctuous and sour notes to the dish that I wasn’t sure would work at first but jelled nicely with the rest of the dish.

Plus, the ability to add an egg the dish for a dollar brings the continuous potential for innovation. Sometimes, traditions need to be updated.

(Also, aside from the outstanding CFS, the fried “beaver balls” are a must have for any visit: fried brownie cakes with ice cream balls on top. Need I say more?)

Ken Martin’s Safari Grill ― Bryan, Texas

2011-04-23T11:15:00.001-07:00

About a year ago, I visited Ken Martin’s Safari Grill and had a bad experience. A thoughtful comment from Ken Martin (the owner) in the comments section cordially invited me back:

Dear friend, I'm sorry you were disappointed with our chicken fried steak and homemade gray. This is my 40th year serving folks in the Brazos Valley and am grateful they have been more pleased than you. Our cutlets are fresh from Ruffino Meats and hand breaded every day and our gravy made from scratch, making our own rue and using chicken base and seasonings. You didn't mention it but I hope you got one of our hot, homemade rolls to sop up the gravy with; most folks really enjoy these! Nonetheless, I am sorry for your disappointment but glad you got good service; we work hard on that, too. Please come in again. Feel free to ask for me or my manager, Joe Ruiz, who has been with me 38 years. Sincerely, ken martin.

Returning to Ken Martin’s, I was curious to see if I would have the same experience. Patterning my trip the same as the first, I arrived for an early lunch, ordered the same dish (yellow gravy with a side of okra and mashed potatoes).

The dish was better! The CFS arrived steaming hot and the texture was great. Plus, the mashed potatoes and fried okra were excellent. The waitstaff were friendly and efficient, as with the first visit.

But, I still didn’t care for the gravy. I’m not beholden to traditional white gravy but the yellow gravy didn’t do it for me. It needed a touch more salt and a bit more pepper. It needed to be more savory and stand up against the saltiness of the CFS.

The upside is that I’d go back. There was much to like and it’s certainly my kind of place.

Brady’s Restaurant -- Brady, Texas

2011-03-27T13:01:00.001-07:00

EDITOR’S NOTE: Embracing our wanderlust in the summer of 2010, Chicken Fried Father and I set out on an adventure to traverse the “Amarillo Highway,” a stretch of road that runs from Port Lavaca to Texline (on the border of New Mexico) and immortalized in a song by Terry Allen. The following entries chronicle our trip, food-wise at least.

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“The Duke” approves. Brady’s Restaurant, located just off Highway 87 in the little town of Brady, is a tidy little roadside place (if a bit over decorated with western style motifs and John Wayne pictures).

Dizzied by traveling many miles from Amarillo and hungry for some classic road food, we started with an order of jalapeno poppers with a blue cheese dressing for dipping. This was a mistake, as the poppers were clearly store bought. They also came out with the fiery heat of a hundred volcanoes. Famished by road hunger, I bit in and was scalded with a scorching blast of processed cheddar cheese. The memory (and scar on the top of my mouth) still haunts me.

Seeking a bit of a change, I chose chicken fried chicken over the chicken fried steak (Chicken Fried Father ordered the steak). It was a good choice. The chicken was well seasoned and pounded very thin (very, very thin). It was so thin that it ended up curling up into a winged origami shape. With a tasty gravy, we’d be all set. Unfortunately the gravy was too soupy and with very little taste. Even a liberal dose of salt and pepper could not bring this CFC back to quality. The chicken fried steak, on the other hand, was also pounded thin but was flavorless. Coupled with the flavorless gravy, there wasn’t much good to say about it, except that I was pleased I hadn’t ordered it.

The CFS was accompanied by green beans, which tasted tinny and were clearly from a can (a tin can), and the CFC was sided by corn, which was also from a can but was less offensive. The mashed potatoes were actually quite tasty. They were lumpy with the skin on and a good garlic flavor. A perfectly buttered and toasted Texas toast was the saving grace for a meal that didn’t satisfy in terms of quantity.

A few tweaks and the CFC would be a good dish. As it is, ask for the gravy on the side.

Hill’s Burgers – Canyon, Texas

2011-02-15T05:36:00.000-08:00

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Just outside Palo Duro State Park is the little town of Canyon, Texas. South of town is Hill’s Burgers, a little burger café with a wide menu. Since it was 10:30 in the morning and we had several hundred miles to cover that afternoon, we chose to eat…uh, light… and go for some sandwich fare.

I chose the chicken fried steak sandwich. Inspired by the traveling the highway and the Canyon, I noticed that all the sandwiches had the option for chili to be added. Done. Our friendly waitress said she had never heard of it before, but seeing the smile on our faces made her a believer. The flavor combination was excellent – the smokiness of the chili and the salty bite of the chicken fried steak made for a wonderful amalgamation. Unfortunately, the steak was as tough as an old shoe. On my first bite, as I moved the sandwich away from my face, the remnants exploded away from my mouth as the steak remained behind. The onion rings (“best in the state” as proclaimed on the window) were tasty with a flaky crust, although the rings were cut a bit thin for my taste.

The motto of Hill’s is “you cook ‘em, you build ‘em” (a sizeable middle table allows you to put all the fixings on your burger or sandwich). So, you can only half blame them if your food isn’t good. Still, this is a fun little burger joint and I’d go back, although I’d probably opt for the burger.

The Big Texan ― Amarillo, TX

2010-12-30T06:54:00.000-08:00

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A standard stopping point for curiosity seekers and truck drivers intent on eating their weight in sodium, the Big Texan is a Route 66 staple. It’s hard to miss, given the giant boot outside, but the construction on the highway and fatigue nearly made us miss.

Now, I love to celebrate Texas. No doubt. But this place feels like the kind of place someone would design as a Texas casino in Las Vegas. A carnival atmosphere. Over the top, often obnoxious (especially the cowboy-clad waitstaff) and full of tourists taking photos of “what Texas is like.”

But, how was the food, you ask?

One of the worst CFS I have ever had. It was overpriced ($15.99), pre-frozen and store bought. The breading was worse than frozen CFS’s I’ve purchased at the grocery. The meat (I’m being generous calling it meat) was mushy and without any flavor. The gravy had no flavor. It was unworthy of the name chicken fried steak. The baked potato, albeit plain, was OK. In relation to the awful rest of the meal, it was a welcome addition.

But, it was big.

Turning Point Café ― Lamesa, TX

2010-11-23T13:36:00.000-08:00

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Turning point indeed. As the textured fantasy of hill country gave way to the isolated beauty desert and plains, we strode into the Turning Point Café for sustenance. Several (old) locals were eating a late lunch at this café-come-diner which was rundown but not in a charming way.

CFS ($7.99) only came with mashed potato and a house salad. The CFS was very, very tough. There were times where I had to stop myself from eating to give a few extra chews. I certainly made for an uninteresting lunch companion as my mouth was constantly closed (manners, you know) to continue masticating. The gravy was unremarkable and without much flavor. Not enough salt, pepper or love in this dish.

The salad was a sad little offering, with store-bought lettuce and ranch dressing. The dressing had that acrid taste that defines store bought salad dressing. The mashed were under seasoned and without much flavor. It also had an odd soapy taste as well.

Overall, it was a sad little place, not unlike the rest of Lamesa which seems to be on hard times. It made us lament the decline of small towns like this, and the concurrent decline of little diners that we so love.

Texas Traditions – Port Lavaca, TX

2010-11-11T08:20:00.000-08:00

EDITOR’S NOTE: Embracing our wanderlust in the summer of 2010, Chicken Fried Father and I set out on an adventure to traverse the “Amarillo Highway,” a perfect stretch of road that runs from Port Lavaca to Textline (on the border of New Mexico) and immortalized in a song by Terry Allen. The following entries chronicle our trip, food-wise at least.

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Right at the mouth of the Amarillo Highway, on “main street” don’t you know, is Texas Traditions. Big wood tables and chairs (with stars), gave a nod to the Texas style.

We split the CFS, unsure of how much food we'd be eating down the road, a southern style offering. The crust to meat ratio was perfect. The steak was tender and perfectly cooked. The gravy was excellent. Hearty, strengthened by chicken stock, the balance of salt and (white) pepper was top notch.

Mashed potatoes and green beans accompanied. Both were strong offerings, but neither was truly excellent. The mashed was lumpy and rich, and played nicely with the gravy. The beans, while presenting like canned beans, were actually stewed fresh with bacon and had a nice flavor. The “dinner roll” was an unfortunate site: small, clearly reheated and dehydrating, it was ignored in favor of other food.

The *killer* was the Jack Daniel’s pecan pie. A wonderful crunch from the pecans and a buttery, flaky crust made was outstanding. We considered adding a dollop of whipped cream to cut the sugar, but didn’t want to indulge so early in the trip. The perfect start to a long voyage.

Norton's - Humble, Texas

2010-10-06T12:31:00.000-07:00

Hearing good things about the CFS at Norton's from Chicken Fried Neighbor, I sought out to partake in some fried goodness after a month long (unhappy) hiatus.

Sadly, I was disappointed in my return to the fried treat. The CFS was as hard as an armadillo shell. The breading was crispy, which I like, but almost inpenetrable, which I don't like. It looked (and tasted) like it had been run over by a bus. The meat, likely as a result of way overfrying, was dense and tough. The gravy was honest enough to itself, creamy and white, but needing a dash more salt and pepper.

The quality and taste of the sides were mixed. The potatoes were whipped and creamy. The flavor was good, but they were a bit greasy and lost their appeal as they cooled. The green beans were very good. A wide bean, they were stewed and meaty.

Overall, Norton's gets an "avoid." I will likely go back, the draw of helmet-on-helmet violence and cheering Texans fans is too good to pass up, but will restrict myself to the wings of chickens and malted and hopped water.

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Brenda's - Flatonia, TX

2010-10-05T06:14:00.000-07:00

Brenda's is a prototypical cafe hidden behind the mega highway. Serving good food and good cheer, it's worth seeking out a little hideaway like this. The decor on the inside was eclectically Texas: cowboy hats, rodeo pictures and clippings of local high school gridiron glory. Overall, very comfortable. The place was packed with locals talking about weekend trips to San Antonio and local sports.

The CFS was an interesting change for me. It was a central Texas snitzel-style, fitting as we were in the center of Czech Texas. It was a bit overcooked as the meat was tough and difficult to chew. The gravy was a very thin but tasty drizzle but not thick enough for my taste.

The sides, however, made up for everything. The handcut french fries were hot an salty. Beautiful. The Texas toast was grilled to perfection and perfectly soft on the inside.

So, hop off I-10 and find Brenda's. Or one of the other hundreds of similar places. You'll be hapy you did.

Taquerias Alma Latina #5 ― Houston, TX

2010-08-27T13:02:00.000-07:00

Jackpot. It may have taken me all summer, through several venues and my own failed attempts, but I have found an immensely pleasing chicken fried steak sandwich….in a taqueria. Taquerias Alma Latina #5 is a wonderfully friendly place on Telephone Road, complete with colorful adornments inside and out. It’s just like ones you always pass by but never stop in to patronize (shame on you!).

Starved for a late lunch, I was delighted to see a milanese torta on the menu ($3.00). I ordered it with french fried, which were hot and tasty (large order $1.25) but lacking salt. Nothing special but they hit the spot. The torta was excellent. The bread was fluffy in the middle and crispy on the inside and out (notice the pressing marks on top). The meat was pork, so it’s not technically a CFSS, but that’s splitting hairs when you’re hungry. The breading was salty, garlicky just a little spicy. The thin pork cutlet was overcooked, but this gave a nice bite to the softness of the rest of the sandwich architecture. A healthy dollop of Mexican crema, a smear of avocado and a hint of mustard finished this fine sandwich.

A fortuitous find in an unlikely location. Well worth a trip to #5 (or any of the other numbers) for a delightful lunch.

Homemade CFSS - CFS Homestead, TX

2010-08-17T07:41:00.001-07:00

Unable to find an appeasing CFSS for the past few months, I attempted to make my own at home. How hard could it be, right? A little tomato, mayo, mustard, avacado and a fried egg atop a crunchy CFS (frozen) should be an easy make.

Sadly, I failed (by my measure and as gingerly expressed to me by Mrs. CFS). The sandwich was overall too juicy, usually a plus, but the combination of ingredients just made muddle of the flavors. The bun (storebought) was soft and pliable but too big and soft. It needed more texture, perhaps a toasting.

The quest continues. Help me out, fair readers.

You had me at "fried"...

2010-08-11T13:58:00.001-07:00

Enjoy!

T-Bone Tom's - Seabrook, TX

2010-08-07T12:51:00.000-07:00

My hunger for a chicken fried steak sandwich (CFSS) unabated, we traveled to Kemah to T-Bone Tom’s for a weekend lunch.

With several “chicken fried” sandwich options, it was hard to make a choice. Setting on the CFSS, the sandwich came with gravy (on the side), lettuce, tomato, onion and pickles. After carefully building my sandwich, I took a bit. Excellent. The CFS was homemade and well cooked. The moistness of the CFS combined with the slight give of the sirloin made for an excellent bite. The veg additions provided an wonderful additional crunch especially the pickles and onions which gave the sandwich a nice sourness to complement the richness of the CFSS.

The enormous steak fries were the size of a remote control. They were fresh and came to the table piping hot.

Hot and tasty is hard to beat. Certainly worth a trip to the shore to try.

Tin Roof BBQ & Steaks ― Atascocita, TX

2010-08-04T05:37:00.000-07:00

As we waited for our meals, our table #8 Texas flag marking our location, we felt very comfortable at Tin Roof. A random assemblage of tables, chairs, old furniture and country brickabrack on the walls (some of them tin), the restaurant feels very cozy and welcoming.

When it arrived, the CFS looked excellent but tasted bland. Not enough salt in the breading. The gravy was runny and tasteless. The meat was tough and flavorless. The breading was crunchy and flaky which was fine by itself but the accompanying compatriots were less than stellar. A little disappointing overall, and, because it was 12.99, it was clearly overpriced.

The sides shined, however. The macaroni and cheese was cheesy and rich with the perfect amount of bite to the pasta. The mashed potatoes were whipped hard but with the skins left on, making a great texture for the side. The two slices of white bread were grilled on a grill, which was odd, but provided a unique smoky taste.

But, it was the French fries which will make you want to come back. Homemade, hand cut, perfectly salted, plentiful and hot. Worth a return trip just to smell the basket.

The Hungry Farmer Bar-B-Q ― Houston, Texas

2010-07-18T12:21:00.000-07:00

Continuing my search for a summer-favorite Chicken Fried Steak Sandwich (CFSS), we sauntered into The Hungry Farmer Bar-B-Q on Crosstimbers (just east of I-45) with high hopes and empty stomachs. The Hungry Farmer is primarily a burger and BBQ place, with a menu of several options of this ilk and a neat interior that reminded me of a cross between a steak house and a diner.

The CFSS basket (with fries, $6.15) was a great meal and a great deal. The fries were excellent ― fresh cut, hot and crispy. My only complaint is that most of them were small. This made for nice crunching but difficulty for my ketchup sopping ambitions.

The CFSS was very good as well. A big beast of a sandwich (likewise with their burgers) made for many excellent mouthfuls. The CFS itself was premade but the balance of veg, bread and meat and the sheer size made for a flavorful bite each time. The heat of the salty and crunchy CFS warmed the mayo and tomato, while the onion (which I added from the bar), pickles (which I added from the bar) and lettuce made for a cool crunch.

A few things are becoming clear regarding the CFSS (or at least my preferred sandwiching options):

Onions (and a health amount of them) are critical.

Mayo is essential.

The tomato and lettuce must be present but side players.

Pickles. The more the better.

Bigger is better (or at least wider is better).

Miller's Cafe - Houston, TX

2010-07-06T14:10:00.000-07:00

I’d been hankering for a CFS sandwich of late (hat tip to my late friend Bill Moran (Texas Chef) for some excellent suggestions last summer when my yearning began). There is something about the combination of a perfectly crisp chicken fried steak, the tang of some mayo, the crunch of fresh veg and a soft bun. My first stop was Miller’s Café in Garden Oaks, a little dive of a burger place with a great atmosphere and self serve soft drinks for a hot summer day. Sadly, the CFS sandwich (CFSS) was disappointing. The CFS itself was clearly prepackaged and frozen, making for a flat (shape and taste) patty. Because of this, the CFS was grainy and mealy. Surrounding the CFS was a slice of tomato, a sad little lettuce flap and a healthy dollop of mayo. Nothing fancy, which is fine, but nothing too interesting either.

The balance of flavor was good and there was nothing egregiously bad about the CFSS. Still, I wished I had ordered a burger. My hankering continues unabated.

Langford’s Grocery ― Houston, TX

2010-06-29T11:59:00.001-07:00

I’ve been meaning to try Langford’s for a few weeks, but was sidetracked by other culinary visits. But I happened to catch a Diners, Drivers and Dives (with annoying boy-host Guy Fieri) where he visited the Bayou City and sampled some of our excellent fare. Langford’s website boasts they have the best burgers in town (hence the visit from the bearded spiky one), an eccentrically decorated roadhouse that feels a bit out of place in the nexus of loft condos in Houston’s Midtown neighborhood. But, Thursday is chicken fried steak day at Langford’s, so I paid a visit.

(image from Langford's website)

The CFS plate starts with a little salad with an excellent cilantro cream dressing. Accompanying the CFS is a spectacular mashed potato with bacon and topped with cheese and scallions.

The steak itself was a big hunk of sirloin, almost as wide and tall as a hamburger patty. The breading didn’t stick to it well at all but I didn’t much care. The rich brown gravy could have used a hint of salt, but the breading was plenty salty by itself. This might have balanced out in each bite but the strong creaminess of the gravy muted this communication. I applied a few dashes of salt from the converted ‘Coronita’ bottle-to-salt shaker and all was well.

The only unpleasantness was a powerful garlicy flavor to … something. I can’t tell you if it was the gravy, the mashed potatoes or the cilantro cream dressing since none tasted strongly of garlic at the time I ate it. But it was one of them. And it was POWERFUL. I can describe it perfectly because I can still taste it three hours and a stick of gum later. But at $6.29 for a half CFS, starter salad, small mashed potatoes (or fries) and a half a perfectly browned Texas toast, this is a great lunch deal. The plate and portion reminded me of little roadhouse cafes in central Texas. Just don’t schedule any face-to-face meetings after lunch on Thursdays.

Hickory Hollow - Houston, TX

2010-06-23T08:37:00.000-07:00

As is often the case, the best keep getting better. Thwarted in our attempts to find CFS on the Saturday of Memorial Day weekend by permanent closures (the Railroad Café) or temporary closures (the Steamboat House), Mrs. CFS and the tater tot returned to one of our favorite standards: Hickory Hollow (unfortunately there is no way for my computer to reverse the “k” in “Hickory” to mirror the sign out front).

Being too proud to order the “Cowgirl” (the “smallest” CFS), I went for the low middle option (the “Field Hand.”) Even at that, no field hand could expect to eat this and go back to work. The CFS was perfectly cooked and as fork tender a steak on a CFS as I’ve ever had. The breading and meat weren’t perfectly melded in balance in that they felt like two distinct parts of the same dish. But it didn’t matter ― the velvety texture of the steak and the crunch of the breading made for a perfect bite.

The mashed potatoes were topped with a perfect amount (not too much, not too little) of their golden, smoky gravy. Salad is usually…well, salad…but the mini salad bar at Hickory Hollow was perfectly fresh, stocked with edible veggies and compete with a delicious ranch dressing (to whit, even the tot wanted, unprompted, to eat some).

So, pour yourself a mason jar of sweet tea and head back again to Hickory Hollow (again and again).

Gus’s Diner ― Sun Prairie, WI

2010-06-13T12:29:00.001-07:00

Start the morning off right and I’ll tell you how: a big cup of coffee, good friends and hefty chicken fried steak. Visiting friends in Madison, Wisconsin, we were treated to an excellent late breakfast at Gus’s Diner in neighboring Sun Prairie. Gus’s Diner recreates a quaint and vibrant traditional greasy spoon diner where you would feel accepted wearing sneakers or bobby socks.

(image snagged from ChicagoNow.com)

The steak was tender and well cooked, if a little buried (and outshined) by the allied players on the plate. The gravy wasn’t my particular cut of brisket, given that the white gravy had mushrooms and a bit too much parsley. What can you say, it’s Wisconsin. It was, however tasty and flavorful and was a nice earthy contrast to the starch of the CFS and perfectly browned hash browns. The accompanying sunny side up eggs provided an amazingly rich mouthful that satisfied all around.

I try not to make it a habit to dine on CFS outside of Texas (especially in Louisiana, sorry Pelican-staters), but this was a welcome meal on a cold Midwestern morning.

The History of CFS

2010-06-13T12:23:00.000-07:00

From the Handbook of Texas Online. A must read! (kindly sent in by a reader).

AAA Restaurant - Houston, TX

2010-06-03T06:05:00.000-07:00

Crispity, chrunchity goodness.*

The chicken fried steak at AAA Restaurant.

AAA is a throwback style diner with a diverse clientele and a traditional menu. The crunch factor was high on the CFS. The picture does not do it justice. The peaks and valleys of fried crust provided an excellent textual counter to the tender steak. This provided an unfortunate related problem where the lumpiness of the steak cooked unevenly in places. Even so, the overall bite was perfect, smothered with the thick white gravy which was nicely balanced. I ordered the baked potato as a side because I often enjoy a giant starch bomb slathered with sour cream. Not too often. But this tater was enjoyable with a fluffy meat and a soft skin. I couldn’t finish it since I was stuffed of CFS, but the little foil package it comes in can double as a doggy bag for a midnight snack (or the following week when you’re hungry again).

* Trademark Butterfinger candybars. Any association is purely coincidental.

Three Most Important Things...

2010-04-20T09:20:00.000-07:00

One of our readers writes in with an important question: “I was wanting to know what the best recipe you've been given so far for chicken fried steak and fried pickles.”

(I’ll keep his/her identify a secret, in case s/he is, like, a nutritionist and only a secret CFS eater).

While I haven't found a perfect recipe, and wouldn’t dare to run afoul of your grandma’s special recipe, I will tell you the elements that I think should be required for a quality chicken fried dish:
* White pepper in the batter. So crucial.

* Buttermilk, not milk. The tangy flavor makes all the difference. This should especially help with your pickles.

* Double dip the steak/pickle in the flour and wet mix. I like a thick crust, so this helps to get a good coat.

What am I missing? What are your favorite techniques or recipes? Inquiring (and hungry) minds want to know.

The Brickhouse - Humble, TX

2010-02-17T06:20:00.000-08:00

Being the youngest “oldest” people at the Brickhouse is not fun. An upscale version of a Hooters, the Brickhouse (at FM 1960 and 59) apparently prides itself on babes and beer ― scantily clad waitresses and an expansive beer menu. They even have trading cards (yes, trading cards) of their waitresses, with a picture of the waitress in a plunging neckline shirt on one side and likes and dislikes and fun facts on the other. It was like reading Playboy without the fun cartoons.

Chicken Fried Neighbor and I ate outside one chilly Friday ― being the young, elderly type, we asked the waitress/model to turn down the music which was blaring Tom Petty at ear harming levels. Can’t do it ― it takes away from the “party theme” she told us. Turn up the heater, we implored! It’s as”high as it can go” she replied.

Despite my cranky objections to the atmosphere, the food was good.

The CFS was done well and enjoyable. The breading was crispy and served as a perfect complement to the creamy gravy. The gravy was a white gravy with good flavor but not enough pepper. A hearty dash of white pepper would have woken up an otherwise bland diary flavor. It also had mushrooms, which I didn’t care for. I think there are better ways to achieve flavor in a gravy.

The side I chose was the “cheesy potatoes,” glorified mashed potatoes with a healthy (not healthy for you) amount of cheddar cheese. There were big chunks of new potatoes which made the texture of the dish terrific. It’s hard to go wrong with that much starch and cheese and the dish did not disappoint. Still, it felt like a 9^th grader’s version of mashed potatoes ― absent elegance, add cheese.

The CFS was also accompanied by a delightful Texas toast ― crispy and buttery on one side and soft and pillowy on the other.

The food is good here, as long as you can tolerate the atmosphere.

I'm not ashamed.

2010-01-21T06:23:00.000-08:00

This is just pure food porn. Sent by a buddy traveling in Arizona. Chicken Fried Steak at the Cowboy Cafe in Wickenburg, Arizona.

This got me thinking -- send me your CFS pics (chickenfriedtexan@gmail.com) and I'll post them. Our collective culinary travels will celebrate the tastiest of all the fried meats!

Frank's Restaraunt - Shulenburg, TX

2010-01-11T11:24:00.000-08:00

You may know Frank’s for their famous “Shulenburger” Burger but there is more to know. I sampled their CFS on the last leg of a trip and enjoyed it immensely.

It was simple, petite and magnificent. Her diminutive size belied her flavor packed punch. The creamy gravy cascaded over the crispy breading like a glorious waterfall – just enough gravy to entertain each bite. Mashed potatoes accompanied and were lumpy and starchy – the perfect compliment to a perfectly cooked steak and just salty enough breading. The only vegetable in sight was a sprig of parsley (which I declined to eat for health reasons).

So, next time you stop, order up the CFS if you’re looking for a burger alternative. Just expect to be very sleepy afterwards.

Texas Land & Cattle – Tomball, TX

2010-01-11T11:17:00.000-08:00

A little Chicken Fried Texan math: Bacon + Jalapeno + Melty Cheddar Cheese = delight.

Our waitress told us about a new menu “soft” rollout with some tasty fried goodies. The one that caught my eye was the “fried jalapeños.” These were not your corner bar’s stuffed jalapenos. These plump heaters were lightly breaded and stuffed with cheddar cheese, bacon and onions, unlike traditional fried jalapenos filled with only cream cheese or cheddar cheese. The seeds were left inside, giving the redesigned “poppers” a nice but understated heat.

These new poppers with a cold beer and some helmet-on-helmet football violence on Sunday afternoon and I’m a happy man.

Twisted Root Burger Company - Richardson, TX

2010-01-04T09:50:00.001-08:00

There’s more to life than CFS. Taking a brief sojourn from CFS, on a recent trip north to Dallas we had the chance to eat at Twisted Root (www.twistedrootburgerco.com), an excellent and eclectic burger joint.

The burgers were excellent, but the fried goodie basket was amazing. Aptly named the “Fried Ride,” this basket of fried vittles arrived at the table with deep fried sweet potatoes, pickles, green beans and onions. Dipped in a little ranch and zinged with a dribble of one of Twisted Root’s signature ketchups (featuring curry and chipotle, among others) and you’re in heart-clogging heaven. The crispness of the veggies , the tender fried exterior and the salty, creamy ranch made for a wonderful bite at all levels.

Just forget about that New Year’s diet idea right now and get some of this.

Mel's Diner - Gidding, TX

2009-12-18T06:31:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip - Part III

The finale to our trip, after a day of imbibing some of the best barbeque joints in Texas, we decided to end our trip with a chicken fried meal.

Mel’s Diner, right on Highway 290, is an old 50s style diner, although a bit rundown (not dissimilar to our waitress who looked a bit rundown herself). I’m fine with dives but the food must be good. Places like this give dives a bad name.

The meal was $8.99 for the “small” CFS. The CFS, which was good sized, was pan fried which made it crispy and gave it a smoky favor. This was a nice change from the more heavy southern style we’d had on the trip to date.

Unfortunately, the meat was chewy, a result of the quick pan fry. The meal came with the choice of a potato product – the French fries were pretty standard, nothing great. Sad little salad accompanied – lettuce and tomato (or some kind of reddish disc) were wilted and old and was not enhanced by the “Newman’s Own” packet dressing which arrived with the salad.

I pine for these kinds of places – wary highway travelers sharing stories, the history, tens of thousands of plates passed from the well-warn kitchen. If only the food were good.

Kloesel’s Steakhouse - Malton, TX

2009-11-20T07:21:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip - Part II

Properly soused with fine ale from the Shiner Bock brewery, we sought out in search of sustenance. The Kloesel’s Steakhouse is more like house than a restaurant (perhaps on purpose) with several rooms that could easily be someone’s living room, den and foyer. Big band polka music emphasized the part of Texas we were in (along with old photos on the wall of similar big bands).

The “lunch plate” was $5.99. Breading was nice and soft, southern style. Perhaps too soft. I like a little crunch to a breading. The meat could have been tenderer as though it could have been beaten a bit more to mash out some of the connective tissue. It was “meat forward” -- there was more meat than breading. The gravy was a traditional white cream gravy and was heavy and satisfying. Sides were set with the plate – mashed (really smashed) red potato “salad” with rosemary (they called them “new potatoes”) and corn which was canned but was mixed with sausage, onion and red peppers (a “meal in itself” according to Chicken Fried Father). The whole plate blended together and billowed with the bounty of yummy lunch fare.

Speed, efficiency and price. CFS in Central Texas. Count me in. Certainly the best food in Malton, Texas.

Werner's - Hattiesville, TX

2009-11-09T06:08:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip - Part I

Weary from travel and with fatigue from the frequency of “fork to mouth” action from stuffing our faces with barbeque, Chicken Fried Father and I stumbled onto Werner’s on Day 1 of our road trip in search of some chicken fried joy to moderate our barbeque-filled afternoon. It turns out, Werner’s is a local chain serving home-style food. The Werner’s we visited was a ramshackle place – the outside was a bit run down and the inside matched. The restaurant looked like an old house with oblong rooms and sitting areas that mimicked (or were) an old farmhouse.

The CFS was disappointing. The steak was tough as a result of being overfried and the breading didn’t stick to it. Gravy was traditional and good but nothing to, ahem, write home about – an unfortunate turn of phrase since I’m now writing home about it. The potatoes were whipped and had good flavor. The green beans, while obviously from a can, had good flavor and a healthy does of bacon to balance the earthiness of the beans with the fatty saltiness of the bacon. Just the way you want them.

But, because it was only $4.99, we didn’t complain. Where are you going to get that value in Houston?

No matter how thirsty you are, don’t ask for a cold ale (or any ale). They don’t have it.

Texas Land & Cattle -- Tomball, TX

2009-10-27T11:22:00.000-07:00

I tend to be wary of Texas-themed restaurants – they tend to mask poor quality food with the spectacle of Texas, hoping non-Texans (and Texans) won’t notice. Texas Land & Cattle deviates slightly from this mold but isn’t without it’s problems.

Like other Texas-themed restaurants, the décor was western themed, although more tasteful than you might imagine. The notable exception was the giant steer head on the wall.
The CFS ($11.95) was a southern style breading soft and juicy round steak. The tenderness was unexpectedly moist and tender, almost fork tender. The breading was soft and not overly crispy. The gravy was a classic luscious white gravy. There was a nice hint of cumin that brought a nice smoky flavor. As good as the technical preparation was, the flavor was a bit bland. Every level (breading, meat, gravy) needed salt and at least a hearty dash of pepper.

The garlic mashed potatoes were tasty and it was clearly prepared freshly and with care. The skins were left on and the garlic tasted like it was roasted, then added, giving the potatoes a nice smoky-sweet flavor instead of overpowering the dish. Still, a dash of salt would have again been warranted.

For a slow Sunday lunch in an empty restaurant, the service was slow, although our waitress was attentive and polite.

If you ignore the wall-spanning Lonesome Dove scene painting on the wall, Texas Land & Cattle ends up like other restaurants. A little more salt and I’d be right at home.

Texas Burger - Fairfield, TX

2009-10-16T09:48:00.000-07:00

Free from the vegetable-loving Mrs. Chicken Fried Steak, tater tot and I set out on a road trip in search of fried tasty vittles in central Texas.

One of my favorite chain burger places is Texas Burger – a place I insist on stopping by each time we make a long haul to Dallas.

This particular Texas Burger in Fairfield shares space with a Subway (and it seemed that most of the patrons were waiting in line for the subway at lunch on a Thursday). The inside is modest but comfortable.

The CFS: Departing from my usual “Double Texas Burger” order, I ordered the steak finger basket. The “meat” itself was too salty but was moist and chewy. I won’t speculate on exactly what it was, but the quality of the filler was low.

Breading: Very thin. So thin you could see the meat itself through the breading. It was also very salty and a bit unpleasant.

Gravy: The gravy came in a little side cup. It didn’t have much flavor but did have the look of a traditional gravy.
Knife: None. Steak fingers are for fingers.

Sides: A little bag of french fries. Texas Burger fries (at least at this location) have a nice little kick and rekindled tater tot’s love of the salted potato stick, thus making my life easier.

Cost: $7.99. A little expensive considering the quantity and quality.

Service: Very good. The woman who took our order also waited on us at our table. She brought our order out swiftly and also brought out our cookies when they were ready.
Music Selection: None.

I recommend sticking to the burger products at the Texas Burger. But, do try the homemade shakes! They can make up for a lot.

John's Cafe - Plano, TX

2009-10-05T05:52:00.001-07:00

Tucked away in a strip mall in east Plano, John’s Café boasts a range of country cooking. They seem to specialize in breakfast and lunch items (and close early, so plan ahead).

Unfortunately, the inside matched the outside dinginess. There was an odor of fresh paint in the restaurant. The décor inside was minimal, with the television as the center of attention in the rather small dining room. The tables are covered with a heavy (clear) plastic sheet that detracted from the ambiance.

The CFS: The CFS was awful. The meat was thin and tough, like a McDonalds hamburger patty gone old. Needless to say, the meat was tough. I think it was sirloin, but I won’t speculate (I won’t share manner of meat we suspected). There was also an odd flavor of garlic powder or onion powder that was very unpleasant.

Breading: Breading was good not but without much flavor.

Gravy: The gravy saved the day. Just like chicken fried mom used to make! It was white, fresh and creamy.

Knife: Steak knife. The size (it being thin) wasn’t the problem – it was the density of the meat.

Sides: Choose two. The mashed potatoes were solid but unremarkable. It had good flavor and nice garlic and salty flavor. The okra was the best of the two: hot and tasty.

There were hot rolls provided to start which caused me mixed emotion. That they were free and hot was good. That they were dry and tasteless was bad.

Cost: $ 7.29. Not a bad price for a lunch, but for the quality, it was a little high.

Service: The service was OK. Very friendly but a little lax. Sides were forgotten. Drink refills were slow. Still, a smile and some good banter make up for a lot.

Music Selection: The din of something but I couldn’t make it out.

I can’t recommend a visit to John’s Café. It was a Sunday lunch, so a weekday meal might be better. I’m reminded of Anthony Bordain’s recommendation in Kitchen Confidential to not eat fish in a restaurant on Monday. Maybe we can add: “don’t eat CFS on a Sunday.”

Swanson's Banquet Dinner - CFS Homestead, TX

2009-09-15T10:32:00.000-07:00

Not being a CFS snob, and with Mrs. CFS out of town for a few days, Tater Tot and I decided to try something new: Swanson’s frozen “Chicken Fried Beef Steak Meal" with "Country Style Gravy." You can probably predict how it ended.

Inspecting it initially, the entombed, frozen components in the plastic tray made for a very unappealing “eat with your eyes experience.”

After the instructed microwave time, we dug in. The breading was soggy as a sponge. There was a hint if meat flavor but otherwise very bland. The gravy didn’t even resemble gravy – it looked like a marshmallow puff type gravy that congealed around the meat. It came with two sides. The mashed potato was bland and looked like wet cotton candy. The corn, oddly, was fine - plump and sweet, not expected from a meal locked in a freezer for three months.

Although I usually encourage Tater Tot to eat more of his dinner, I wasn’t displeased that he didn’t want to continue. Fortunately, in the same trip to the grocery, we bought (and devoured) a medium sized watermelon.

I didn’t expect much and didn’t get much. We’ll stick to watermelon next time.

Star Cafe - Crosby, TX

2009-09-08T10:39:00.000-07:00

Chicken Fried Neighbor and I happened across Star Café by accident. Getting a bit lost one day east of Lake Houston, we stumbled upon this jem of a place. Betwixt fields of cows and more fields of cows, Star Café is a perfect roadhouse café.

The inside is chock full of old movie posters and pictures of movie stars from the 1930s and 1940s. The hardwood floors compliment the classic diner table tops. The menu was pretty big, along with breakfast items which looked great, and mostly included diner-type fare.

The CFS: Superb. A tender and juicy cube steak that was cooked perfectly.

(I promise to get a better picture next time.)

Breading: Southern style – thick and crispy. My first impression was that the breading was a bit salty, but this actually turned out to be a perfect complement to the creaminess of the gravy.

Gravy: A nice, white cream gravy. Nothing really special here but the consistency was great and the flavor was a great complement to the CFS.

Knife: Steak knife. The steak was tender enough to eat with a fork but I used the knife so I could eat more of the awesome CFS faster.

Sides: Choice of potato (mashed, fried or baked) and one additional side. I went with the mashed potato and fried okra. The mashed potatoes were great – lumpy, creamy and full of flavor. Like the breading on the CFS, it was a bit salty but, again complimented by the gravy, the relationship was perfect.

Cost: $11.50. A little on the high side but the quality was great and worth the price. Hell, I’m still full.

Service: Wonderful. Our waitress was chatty and efficient. Chicken Fried Neighbor asked how large the CFS was and her coy reply was “you’ll see” with a sly smile.

Music Selection: Oldies (Elvis, Buddy Holly, Chubby Checker). Check out some of their antique juke boxes.

Despite the out of the way location, it’s well worth a trip. You won’t be sorry. There’s also a “golf facility” in the compound of buildings, but I didn’t see what this meant. After that CFS, I needed a nap, not a round of golf, miniature or otherwise.

21522 FM 2100
Crosby, Texas 77532

Fried Fish Friday (Catfish Cafe - Humble, TX)

2009-08-20T11:58:00.000-07:00

New feature! Man cannot live by CFS alone. Besides fish is good for you.

Catfish Café in Humble delivers on both words in the title. The restaurant is small but cozy – a perfect little cafe. The catfish (all you can eat or orders of 3 and 4 strips) was hot and juicy. Tarter sauce was pumped out of a big jug, allowing generous portions (and Chicken Fried Neighbor to mix some evil concoctions). All you can eat was $15.99 which includes a side of hush puppies and French fries. Both were tasty but the fish was the star. The staff was attentive and kept the catfish flying out of the kitchen.

7042 FM 1960 Road East
Humble, TX

Carriage House - Houston, TX

2009-08-20T11:39:00.000-07:00

I discovered the Carriage House on accident because I was on my way to Hickory Hollow which is right down the road. Fortunately, I can’t seem to pass up a sign announcing chicken fried steak, so I made a return trip.

With horses on the premises and the acreage surrounding the restaurant including old building and, of course, carriages, the Carriage House is part diner and part historical grounds.

More barn than restaurant, the Carriage House is like no other place I’ve ever seen. It is literally like walking into an old barn, complete with wood all around, horse harnesses, hay bails and creaking floors. It is a cavernous place with many rooms that evokes a dark old saloon from yesteryear. The décor is more like an antiques store, with more china hutches than the collective grandmothers of my readership. This made for a very homey feel, especially for being inside of a barn.

The CFS: Very tender and cooked perfectly, making it hard to believe that it was cube steak. How they got it this tender is a mystery beyond my cooking skills. I wish more places would do it like this.

Breading: Flakey and crispy. It was as light as one could make such breading after frying it. It had a taste that reminded me of a cafeteria style breading , done with more care and thought.

Gravy: The gravy was flavorful – creamy and peppery with great consistency.

Knife: Regular knife. I usually lean toward something more substantial, but the tenderness of the CFS made anything more than your fork unnecessary.

Sides: Salad bar + one side. I chose the fried okra as my side: it was delicious. Fresh, hot and very crispy. The salad bar, which I used simply as a way to kill time until the fried items arrived, was well stocked but not very large.

Cost: $ 7.29. A great deal.

Service: Walkup service (which got crowded around lunchtime). The food came out hot and fast.
Music Selection: (Very) old country. It fit the location perfectly!

This place is certainly a throwback – a unique specimen from inside to outside. And the food is also unique. The quality of the CFS and the ethereal quality of the preparation ensures I’ll make another visit. I’ll bring Trigger next time.

7955 Fallbrook Dr.
Houston, TX 77064

http://www.thecarriagehousecafe.com/

Love and War in Texas - Plano, TX

2009-08-05T06:10:00.000-07:00

Chicken fried parents have been singing the praises of Love and War for several years. The perfect storm of hunger, location and need for salt merged and we paid a visit. If anything, they undersold it. Despite being right behind Central Expressway, Love and War is a great place that could be anywhere in Texas: bar, outdoor concert venue, requisite Texas decorations inside, Shiner on tap and great food.

The CFS: The “Big Tex Chicken Fried Steak.” Super (fork) tender and very moist. Cube steak.

Breading: Thick, southern style but needed a little salt.

Gravy: A creamy gravy with ham. The flavor was good but the ham overpowered the CFS. There was a significant amount of heat too – more than you might expect. Cayenne pepper on the top (dotted with a little pasilla chili which chicken fried father unwisely gobbled down).

Knife: Steak knife. But, the tenderness of the CFS made it almost an adornment.

Sides: As good as the CFS was, this visit was all about the sides. Choose two. The mashed potato was creamy with great potato flavor and lumpy as Hill Country. The cream/ham gravy was ladled on top with a generous sprinkling of cayenne. The Texas Caviar (black eyed peas) had a great blend of peppers, heat, bacon and earthy bean flavor.

Cost: $ 11.95. A bit expensive but the quality of the food made it worth the cost.

Service: Friendly but not totally efficient. French fries were brought instead Tot’s mashed potatoes. We had to repeatedly ask for silverware. But a little banter, an earnest effort and good food makes up for a lot in my book.

Music Selection: My perfect playlist: Uncle Tupelo, Willie and more.

Try the wagon wheels (fried pickles) if you are really hungry – you won’t be disappointed.

http://www.loveandwarintexas.com/

Wunsche Brothers Café and Saloon– Spring, TX

2009-07-20T06:15:00.001-07:00

A trip to Ole Towne Spring is like a trip back in time. Wunsche Brothers is where you’d eat if it were 1900, you were fresh off the trial and needed a starch fix (just ignore the neon).

Wunsche Brothers is a neat old style café with an old timey feel: wood paneled walls and floors, old pictures and rusted farm equipment adorn the walls.

The CFS: Southern style and deep fried. It was plenty big (long) and the cube steak was very thick. It was good but a little soggy and cold.

Breading: It thoroughly covered the CFS but it was unfortunately, as I mentioned, a little soggy. I would have preferred a bit more crunch to accentuate the differences in textures among the component parts.

Gravy: White and traditional. It was good but nothing to write home about. I make no qualms about preferring a gravy with a little zing.

Knife: Standard knife provided. It would have been good to have something larger, given the relatively large size of the CFS to the relatively small plate.

Sides: Choose two: I chose the mashed potatoes and the okra and tomato. The mashed potato was good but nothing memorable. It had a good potato flavor, find seasoning balance and a hint of garlic. The okra and tomato was a recipe worth stealing! Stewed together, the marriage of the thickly sliced okra and the diced tomato was a heavenly match and highlighted the meal.

Cost: $ 12.99, a little on the high side.

Service: Friendly but not terribly engaging. She did her job (waitressing) and we did ours (eating).

Music Selection: Contemporary rock. (bonus points if you can name the song with the following lyric: “I met her in a Kingstown bar…”)

Walk a few blocks around Ole Town Spring and you won’t be sorry. It’s a fun little place for a stroll with interesting shops and a wide availability of other fried vittles, like funnel cakes and fried Twinkies. If I hadn’t been so full, I would have gained 5 pounds.
http://www.wunschebroscafe.com/

Kelly's Eastside - Plano, TX

2009-07-09T06:44:00.000-07:00

Part of the reemergence of Downtown Plano, Kelley’s Eastside is a cozy little bistro in the heart of downtown. The inside has a clean and organized feel but is still warm and inviting. There is also an outside seating area.
The CFS: The cube steak was overdone and chewy. The stringiness of the meat made me exercise serious jaw muscles to swallow.

Breading: A bit too crispy, suggesting it was overdone. Combined with the chewy steak, it made for a most unpleasant bite.

Gravy: Southern cream gravy. The flavor of the milk was fresh but it was a little bland.

Knife: A steak knife was provided and much needed.

Sides: Choose two. I had the queso mashed potatoes (mashed potatoes with queso poured on top) and the cole slaw. Although the concept was inventive, the execution fell short. The mashed was dry, unsalted and without much flavor. The balance of flavor needed to be better between the queso and the potato. The cole slaw was also subpar – it was crunchy but not enough acid to make the perfect creamy/acid nexus required of good cole slaw.

Cost: $ 11.95. Frankly, too much for the quality and quantity of the lunch.

Service: Efficient and friendly. We were in and out quickly.

Music Selection: contemporary pop.

Kelley’s didn’t serve up a great CFS but it was a nice place with a lot of potential. The creativeness of the menu and the great location downtown. I could easily see strolling over after work for a beer or just a quick lunch.
http://www.kellyseastside.com/

1422 Avenue K
Plano, Texas

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Kettle Restaurant - Houston, TX

2009-06-29T10:30:00.000-07:00

Let me start by saying this: all you can eat chicken fried steak. Interested?

Kettle is a thematic mix between Dennys and IHOP – a more diner style Black Eyed Pea. The inside (sorry no picture) is simple with wood tables and benches. There was an eclectic mix of locals and travelers (since the restaurant is located pretty near Bush Intercontinental).

The menu is pretty diverse. But, after glancing for a few minutes, our waitress turned us on to the buffet. The buffet, that is, which included CFS. Other items (none of which looked too good) were a large roast, lasagna, rolls and some like of lo mein noodle.

The CFS: Pretty good. The steak was a little overdone and a little on the dry side but was still tasty (cube steak). But, even though it wasn’t the best I’ve had, the neverending tray certainly made up for it.

Breading: Southern style – thick and very crispy. The CFS held up remarkably well despite being in a bin with his cousins all morning.

Gravy: A pretty standard white cream gravy. A little bland. It wasn’t on the buffet line, so you had to ask for it.

Knife: Kitchen knife. Something larger would have been more handy, given that the steak was a bit tough and the breading formed a thick shell.

Sides: Just grab a ladle and scoop. Greens, mushy corn on the cob, mashed potatoes and a few other goodies. Nothing great here. The mushy corn on the cob was…mushy. The mashed potatoes were good – tasted like instant but the flavor was good and they were moist and warm.

Cost: $ 6.99 for the buffet. A good deal for the quantity, even if the quality wasn’t spot on.

Service: Skilled and friendly. There’s something about a good waitress in a diner that screams “efficient” to me. Our waitress kept the cups of gravy coming and the drinks full.

Music Selection: none.

Look, you’re not going to find gourmet food here. But if you want to strap on a feed bag, you now know the place.
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15360 John F. Kennedy
Houston, TX 77032
www.kettle.com

Hickory Hollow - Houston, TX

2009-06-06T11:33:00.000-07:00

Tucked away behind the Sam Houston Race Track on Houston’s northwest side is Hickory Hollow (note the backwards ‘k’ in the name). Hickory Hollow is a great little roadhouse style BBQ place with a wide menu.

Unlike other places that try to approximate a Texas-style café, this place makes the details count. The meals are served on large pizza pie trays (which are hard to cut on but big enough to hold the mass amount of food you get). The flatware is held in bins alongside napkins from a holder. The iced tea is served in glass mason jars.

The accolades are impressive. The website lists a few on the CFS alone:

The Houston Press says it’s the Best Chicken Fried Steak in Houston. The Houston Business Journal Gourmet Choice agrees. Oprah Magazine says it’s the Best Value. “Just look at the size of those chicken fried steaks!”

I must say I agree.

The CFS: She was big (and I didn’t even order the largest size). I ordered the Medium Hired Hand (the third largest) and it was huge. The steak (cubed sirloin) was nice and juicy but was a bit chewy, suggesting it could have been tenderized a bit more or cooked a bit more. It didn’t detract from the taste, but there were bites where the steak was a bit stringy with the connective tissue.

The Breading: Southern style and crunchy. It was flaky and had a good balance of butter, pepper and possibly butter milk. One nice thing was that it was so big and there was so much breading that I was able to manufacture my own tasty bites with a great amount of gravy, extra crunch from the breading the and the soft and chewy steak.

The Gravy: They call it “River Bottom Gravy” – it was tasty stuff. It’s hard to tell from the picture, but the gravy is a yellow color, and it has notes of corn and chicken, along with a good amount of buttery, creamy flavor and pepper. It wasn’t heavily glopped on, but given the size of the CFS, there was a great deal of it.

Knife: Too small! The knife was a standard dinner knife, which was too small. Something larger was necessary.

Sides: You can either get a salad and mashed potato or a salad and baked potato. I went for the mashed and it was good - great balance of flavor and a good creamy texture.

The Price: $9.79 for the Medium Ranch Hand with salad and mashed potato. Given the amount of food, this was an excellent deal.

Music: None, except for Court TV (which I turned off so I could read about the Rockets’ latest injury report in the Chronicle).

Service: Walk up counter service. Your order is sent out to you from the kitchen through a little window (they’ll call you number). Everybody was friendly and efficient. Although they weren’t busy at the time, my guess was that they always move that efficiently.

If I could, I’d have Hickory Hollow cater all of my meals. I wouldn’t live another 10 years but at least they’d be a good 10 years.

8038 Fallbrook Drive
Houston, Texas

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http://www.hickoryhollowrestaurant.com/

Fausto's - Iowa, LA

2009-05-19T06:59:00.000-07:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: New Orleans (Part 2 of 2)

On my return trip to the Lone Star State from New Orleans, a colleague recommended Fausto’s to me in a little town about halfway to Houston in Iowa, Louisiana (no, this is not a typo).

Inside Fausto’s is more like a fishing lodge than a restaurant with several impressive large mounted fish and pictures of the catch of local fishermen adoring the walls. It was clearly a family run place, with family pictures on the wall of people I recognized from the restaurant.

The CFS: Moist, tender and tasty, but clearly pre-formed and frozen. It resembled a hockey puck as it was poised curvelinearly on my (styrofoam) plate.

Breading: Dense and salty. Clearly had been pre-professed. More like a protective shell than breading.

Gravy: White and creamy but without much to it. A bit like wallpaper paste. Not much flavor or depth and too runny to be much good.

Knife: Plastic, for goodness sake. Quality aside, these were inappropriate for the size of the job.

Sides: One side to choose one that was fixed. The fixed item was a small cup of cole slaw which was awful – too much mayo and too much vinegar made for a sloppy mess. The sides you could choose among French fries, baked potato or onion rings. I ordered the French fries; my server brought me the onion rings. In a hurry, ate the onion rings. My mistake. The onion rings were awful too: cold, overly salty, dense breading and too thin to get any onion flavor. The meal also came with a roll that was like eating a cold pillow – it was clearly pulled out of a bag with hundreds of other rolls.

Cost: $ 8.99. Too much considering the quality of the meal.

Service: Counter service – place order from a large menu with small type and they bring out the food. Service was friendly although not totally competent.

Music Selection: None.

In retrospect, I should have had the fried chicken as recommended to me but I simply couldn’t resist trying the CFS when presented with the option. I mean, what kind of chicken fried blogger would I be if I didn't? So, stick to the fried chicken at Fausto’s and stick to Texas for Chicken Fried Steak.

105 E. Miller Avenue, Iowa, LA.

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Getting All Political.

2009-05-09T17:37:00.000-07:00

The Chicken Fried Texan is not political. I accept all fried food-loving people, be they gravy on or off the meat folks, lovers of fried or fresh okra or deep-fried over pan fried CFS aficionados.
But, action to ban delicious trans fats from Texas eateries recently passed by the Texas Senate has pushed me into action! (see below article or read the legislation here).

Image borrowed from here.

Texas Senate OKs Bill Banning Trans Fat
By JANET ELLIOTT
Houston Chronicle
May 8, 2009

AUSTIN — Chicken-fried steak with zero trans fat? Are you kidding? Not at the Texas Legislature, they’re not. Under a bill passed Friday by the Senate, restaurants across the state would be banned from cooking with oil that contains trans fat. Many major fast-food chains and doughnut shops already have stopped using trans fat, said Sen. Eliot Shapleigh, D-El Paso, sponsor of the measure. Trans fat raises LDL, the “bad cholesterol,” and lowers HDL, or “good cholesterol,” which can lead to clogged arteries and an increased risk of heart attack or stroke. It now heads to the House, where it has passed in committee, giving it healthy odds of making it through the full Legislature. New York and California have banned the substance, developed during World War II to extend the life of cooking oils by adding hydrogen. Large restaurant chains would have until Sept. 1, 2010, to comply; chains with fewer than 15 restaurants would have an extra year. Bakeries, grocery stores and nonprofits such as state fairs or rodeos would be exempt. Sen. Kel Seliger, R-Amarillo, mocked the bill: “Is there a charge in the bill for assault with a deadly triglyceride?”

The legislation must now be passed by the Texas House of Representatives to become law. So, write, call or email your Texas House Member today to preserve our beloved fried vittles forever!

Fat lovers unite!

To paraphrase fellow Texan Lyndon Johnson, “we must either love [our fried goodness] or we must die.”

Lone Star Steakhouse Seafood and Grill – Beaumont, TX

2009-04-30T05:40:00.000-07:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: New Orleans (Part 1 of 2)

I don’t know what it is about road trips that makes me hungry, but in the midst of a trip to New Orleans, I got the hunger bug. Fortunately, I located Lone Star just off I-10 and headed in.

The inside décor is minimal and stripped down and had the feel of a real roadside diner (which, in effect, it was). The brown vinyl covered tables, wood panel walls made the place comfortable, if not a page out of Southern Living.

The CFS: Unevenly cooked – parts that were very juicy (as juicy as I’ve tasted) but parts were tough and overcooked.

Breading: Rich, peppery. Southern style. Good flavor. The charring on the side (my friend Texas Chef told me) is probably a result of pan frying, not deep frying.

Gravy: White, cream gravy. Flakes of pepper but not overpowering. Flavorful, rich. Good compliment to the CFS overall.

Knife: Steak knife provided and was appropriate.

Sides: Choose 3 (with the “small” CFS). I chose the okra, cornbread stuffing and the mashed potato, desiring to boost my starch intake for the long drive to the “big easy.” The stuffing was a bit dry and plain, although it was tasty. The okra was very good: lightly fried and tasted of…okra, suggesting it was fresh and recently fried. The mashed potato were also very good (same gravy was on it) – well whipped, good flavor and good balance of flavors.

Cost: $ 10.99 for the “small CFS.” A bit high but the food was fresh, fast and homemade.

Service: Good. A bit slow, although I arrived at the height of the lunch rush, so things seemed a bit chaotic. My waitress was very apologetic for the delays and got my food out quickly. She kept calling me “baby,” not in a romantic way but in a mother-son kind of way (I assume). (this was not uncommon as visits to other non-CFS restaurants in New Orleans repeated this pattern).

Music Selection: None.

Overall, this was perfect road food and well worth the time to temporarily halt my journey for a brief respite from the road.

6685 Eastex Freeway, Beaumont 77706.

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Neal’s Restaurant – Spring, TX

2009-04-13T06:59:00.000-07:00

Hunger for a starchy meal on a Saturday, we made a run north to Spring to try Neal’s Restaurant. Neal’s is a neat place that boasts of several country classics.

The inside is stocked with various animal heads (moose, elk, deer, none of which was on the menu), pictures from local students (a good sign) and a giant Texas flag (an even better sign). The place is very casual and exactly what you’d want from a country kitchen.

The CFS: Cube steak that was a bit tough. It wasn’t dramatically overcooked but enough that you’d notice. Still, the meat was flavorful and somewhat juicy.

Breading: Southern style. Good flavor. Flaky. Parts were a little charred which make for a nice crunch and a good smoky flavor.

Gravy: White, cream gravy. It tasted very fresh, like a strong cream. This can be a plus, but it made the gravy a bit sweet. This, combined with a lack of seasoning, over powered the whole CFS with the sweet taste of cream. So, I applied salt and pepper and it was much better.

Knife: Steak knife provided and was appropriate.

Sides: Choose 2. I chose the okra and the mashed potato. The okra was good: it was a bit over fried (too dark and a bit crispy) but it was still good. The mashed potato were also very good with good flavors of garlic and potato.

As a side note, we chose to partake in some of the delicious looking pies in the pie window as we first walked in. There was no room in our stomachs for it, but we pressed ahead. The cherry pie was perfect – just like grandma makes. The Meyer lemon pie was also excellent. But, really, have you ever had bad pie?

Cost: $ 10.99 for the “large CFS.” Given the amount of food and the quality, this was a good bargain. The small order was $8.99 which would have been plenty if I hadn’t dramatically overestimated my appetite.

Service: Top notch. The service was super fast, efficient and my soda was never empty. She even flirted with the tot and provided him with some green Marti Gras beads.

Music Selection: None.

Neal’s Restaurant is in the middle of nowhere but boasts the “best chicken fried steak around.” “Around” being vague enough to imply they’re ready to take on all challengers. After eating there, they’d probably give most a run for their money.

(don’t forget to pick up a pie or a dozen free range eggs on you way out – you won’t be sorry).

http://www.nealsrestaurant.com/
4750 F.M. 2920

Spring, Texas 77388.
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A CFS By Any Other Name Would Be as Delicious...

2009-04-11T08:43:00.001-07:00

Also, here's a neat site summarizing the regional differences (and different preparations) of "CFS": http://www.tvrage.com/Good_Eats/episodes/396004/10x04. It's hard to argue with Alton Brown.

The Results Are In...

2009-04-11T08:22:00.000-07:00

Thanks to all who voted in the poll. "Chicken Fried Steak" is apparently the winning title, although this is likely weighted by a heavy Texas readership.

As a reward, watch Paula give Bobby his "cumuppins" in the "Country" Fried Steak Throwdown:

...you didn't think he'd win, did you?

Scroll down to take an important poll...

2009-04-07T10:19:00.001-07:00

The Potatoe Patch – Houston, TX

2009-03-31T05:37:00.000-07:00

Out running some errands at the I-45 – 1960 corridor, I came across the Potatoe Patch (apologies to the driver behind me who was caught off guard by my quick swerve into their parking lot). I thought the name was a riff on Dan Quayle’s inability to correctly spell the singular “potato” but apparently there are several people who spell it this way.

The Patch is a large version of a small town diner and has a very comfortable feel. They have an elaborate entry system, suggesting that the place gets busy (a good sign). There were several groups of office workers and several of Houston’s Finest enjoying lunch (a very good sign).

As I sat down, my waitress brought a little basket of fried vittles. It consisted mostly of okra but also a few onions and another veg (parsnip?). All together, it was a great start to the meal.

After I munched a few fried vittles, a “roll guy” came around offering fresh-baked rolls. When I first came in, I took virtually no notice of the sign proclaiming: “throwed rolls…if they ain’t worth throwin’, they ain’t worth eatin’” (all the apostrophes made me dizzy). But, I soon found out that “throwed rolls” was not a figurative expression as the “roll guy” lobbed one at me from about 30 feet. Fortunately I fielded my position well and, after bouncing it off my chest, I wrangled it in. The roll was warm and soft and I gobbled it down.

Steak: A nice thin sirloin – there was a great amount of give and it was nice and juicy and hot.

Breading: It was a bit thinner than other southern style CFS breadings and it was very light (in color and texture). This didn’t hold up well to the gravy but the thinness was a plus and it was different. For lunch, it was nice to have something light (even though CFS is by design heavy).

Gravy: Very white. It was a little bland but very thick. The flavor of both the breading and the mashed potato side (see below) was tasty enough to overcome this wanting, but more flavorful gravy is always better than less flavorful gravy.

Knife: A more substantial steak knife was provided and was helpful. The CFS was a bit tough, so I would have liked something more substantial.

Sides: The dish only came with one kind of potato side but you could have it virtually any way you wanted. I had mashed and they were very good. It was coated in the same gravy and had a great garlic and onion flavor. Beyond that, there is a list of sides and I chose the lima beans. The beans were good; cooked with ham hock, every kid who espouses a hatred of the tiny bean should try these. Those plus the okra mentioned above and I was a happy lunchgoer.

Service: Great! I haven’t been told “God bless you” outside of church so many times in one place. My waitress (and the cashier) were very quick and super friendly.

Music: none.

My receipt indicated that I should “Please come back and catch more hot rolls.” I plan to – the CFS was great and the visit was very pleasant. In fact, a menu item caught my eye: chicken fried steak potato(e). I will return.

www.potatoepatch.com

2020 FM 1960 East
Houston, Texas 77073

Church's Chicken - Humble, TX

2009-03-18T11:35:00.000-07:00

With Mrs. CFS working late one night, and the Tater Tot and myself needing sustenance for two, I ventured out to Church’s Chicken for a quick, salty meal. I never would have thought Church’s had CFS (which they call Country Fried Steak) but for a commercial I had seen earlier in the week advertising their new CFS meal. Being a curious and hungry fellow, I decided to give it a chance.

As many are, this Church’s was attached to a Valero gas station. This was a bit of a problem because I had boycotted this Valero for it’s generally gross appearance and skanky clientele (along with the hard core pornography open on display inside, not that I’m a prude or anything). Inside this Church’s was pretty much like most others – reasonably clean and primarily serving as a shortcut to getting into the Valero station snack shop.

CFS: I wasn’t expecting much and I got it. The steak was a chopped, pre-processed patty, although it did have a bit of bite. Generally, though, it was pretty flavorful.

Breading: A thin, “Shake ‘n Bake” layer of breading held it together. It was pretty crispy and held up to the gravy well. It had a nice hint of pepper which made it nice.

Gravy: My order taker gave me a choice between white or jalapeno gravy. Having seen the jalapeno advertised in their commercial (and enjoying a good jalapeno), I couldn’t resist. It actually was pretty good, with a good balance of creaminess, pepper and heat. I might try to recreate this!
Sides: The meal came with two sides (no choices): mashed potato and corn on the cob. The mashed potato wasn’t bad, similar to what you’d find at Popeye’s or KFC. It had a nice salty potato flavor and a thin brown gravy on top. It was formed into a perfect circle, so much so that I hesitated to disturb the perfect orb. The corn on the cob had a wooden stick in it (for easy eating) and came wrapped in a little yellow bag. It was very soggy suggesting it was probably boiled. The tot liked it, though, as he is a corn aficionado.

Price: An astounding $4.99 for the meal ($2.99 without the meal).

Service: Efficient if not a little curt. I cut her some slack since working at Church’s connected to a gas station can’t be that rewarding.

Music: none.

For fast food CFS “on the go,” this wasn’t all bad. It was certainly not as bad as I expected. I’ll probably not seek it out again, but in a pinch or during a late night CFS binge, I’ll no doubt be stopping there again.

Dixie Cafe (Johnny Reb's) - Hearne, TX

2009-03-06T12:46:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: College Station (3 of 3)

Wrapping up my trip north, I consulted Google for quality CFS in the Bryan-College Station area. Dixie Café’s name kept coming up – this was for very good reason. To preview: this was the best CFS I’ve had on this journey so far. It is not to be missed.

The interior is a standard diner with an eclectic mix of customers – farmers, travelers, business people, high schoolers (and everybody was happy). Texas Monthly actually listed the Dixie Café in their “40 best Diners” issue (see earlier post) and noted that the décor was “confederate.” I believed this substantially to not bring in my New York Times to read (it being a Communist paper), but other than the Confederate flags on the shirts, I didn’t see evidence of confederate décor.

The CFS: Very, very good. The steak (cubed sirloin) was soft and had the right amount of chew.

Breading: Southern style. Thick, crumbly and tasty. The was a nice hint of buttermilk and pepper.
Gravy: Thick and white. A classic CFS gravy with good hint of pepper and cumin. It came served on the CFS.

The balance of all of the flavors and textures was excellent. Each element was in perfect harmony and brought another layer of enjoyment to the dish.

Knife: A bigger than average steak knife was used and it was appropriate.

Sides: I picked the okra and the mashed potatoes. The okra was disappointing as it was cold and a bit mushy. The mashed potatoes were fantastic – a great garlicy flavor, good pepper and skins in.

Cost: $12.99. Higher than CFS on average but well worth it.

Service: Very good. The waitresses buzzed around the café and kept the iced tea (sweetened) filled and the sides coming.

Music Selection: Probably none. Just the hum of a busy restaurant at lunch time.

The worst part about the meal was that I had to drive three hours home wanting to take a nap and unsure about when I’d be back. Who would have thought heaven was off Highway 6 in Texas? My only regret was not saving room for pie.

http://www.dixiecafe.com/

CFS, New York Style

2009-03-04T07:14:00.000-08:00

The New York Times has praised the cube steak today noting that it’s a cut of meat that’s returning to vogue (http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/04/dining/04steak.html?8dpc). They even include a recipe for chicken fried steak: http://www.nytimes.com/2009/03/04/dining/041srex.html. But, here in Texas, it never went out of style (and we don’t hyphenate “chicken fried” steak).

Ken Martin’s Safari Grill – Bryan, TX

2009-02-20T06:23:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: College Station (Part 2 of 3)

Seeking sustenance after a long day, I journeyed to Ken Martin’s Safari Grill. With only hunger as my guide, I sought to eat a third CFS in as many days. The place is tucked away in north Bryan in a grouping of office buildings and apartments.

There isn’t anything particularly “safari” about the restaurant other than the fact that the booths have a jungle animal print and the walls are staked with occasional tiki torches. The menu is pretty standard diner/café fare– no exotic animals available on the menu.

The CFS: Not good. The steak had a bit of an odd odor and the taste was a bit off. The steak was sufficiently juicy and chewy but the flavor was just not right, so I chose not to finish it. It also appeared to be pre-cooked and came out to my table minutes (say, six) after I ordered it. So, either my reputation had preceded me or it was ready to go even if I had come in hours earlier.

Breading: Southern style. It was a little hard, making it difficult to cut properly. The taste was fine but nothing memorable.

Gravy: The pride of the house, according to the waiter. It was yellow (yellow like the yellow sunset picture on the menu, according to my waiter). But, it was flavorless (like the sunset picture on the menu). I’ve had yellow gravy before which was good, but this version was not good. It was nearly tasteless and added virtually nothing to the dish.

Knife: A more sizable steak knife was brought – useful for cutting through the tough outer shell of the breading.

Sides: Choose two – I chose the green beans and mashed potatoes. The beans were from a can and a bit on the soggy side (even for beans from a can). The potatoes were actually pretty good, lumpy, well seasoned and the hint of an occasional skin. But, they were slathered with the infamous yellow gravy, making them less appealing. Still, after abandoning my CFS, I happily finished my starch.

Cost: $ 6.99 plus a dinner salad for $ 1.99. Not a bad price (if the food were good).

Service: Very nice! My waiter was helpful, efficient, gracious and enthusiastic. It’s not his fault the food was bad. I felt bad knowing I would write a bad review, so I tipped him big (also it occurred to me that they wouldn’t be in business much longer).

Music Selection: None.

No sense dwelling on it, but this was the worst CFS of my still young quest. I’ve never been on safari, but if this is the food one receives, I’m happy to stay in Houston.

3231 E. 29th St.; Bryan, TX 77802
(979) 776-7500

Chicken Oil - College Station, TX

2009-02-09T07:12:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: College Station (Part 1 of 3)

This entry is part of a three-part series on a road trip to College Station (homebase to all you Aggies).

I pulled into town on an empty stomach and dreams of creamy and tasty CFS for a hundred miles. On my trip to BCS (Bryan-College Station for those of you who aren’t Aggies), I decided to stop first at Chicken Oil to sample their CFS.

Chicken Oil is an alternative location to the popular Dixie Chicken watering hole and is more accessible for non-college students.

The outside and inside look like a several dozen old gas stations were smushed together. Oil and gas signs from every once established, long since gone and even a few current petrol companies. The floors are hard wood and creak with age. The wood tables are carved with the names, dates, slogans, proverbs, advice and nonsense of thousands of patrons who’ve enjoyed Chicken Oil.

The CFS: Tasty and warm. Just what I was looking for. Still, it was a little dry on the outside, even though the steak (cube steak) was chewy and juicy.

Breading: Hand formed breading, but hand formed breading from perhaps hours before. There wasn’t much love in the breading and it tasted a bit dried out. It wasn’t flaky or crumbly like I like it. It did, however, hold the CFS together.

Gravy: The gravy came in a little cup on the side (no other option was given). It was white and peppery but otherwise lacked flavor. It tasted like it needed a little broth, salt or heat (cayenne?). In any case, it didn’t exactly satisfy.

Knife: Standard kitchen knife provided and appropriate.

Sides: No choices. It came with Texas toast (surprise), salad and a bag of french fries. All were good but the toast was especially good: lightly toasted on the outside and soft in the middle. I could eat a whole loaf.

Cost: $ 6.49 for the small (and it was small). Overall, considering the whole plate, a satisfying meal and a satisfying price.

Service: Counter walk up service. Friendly but disinterested. Well, A&M hasn’t had such a good football season (compared to Texas Tech, Texas or Oklahoma), so I grant a little sadness.

Music Selection: Old country (Ray Price, Kenny Rodgers and I thought I heard a Patsy Cline).

While I chose not to add my mark to the table at which I was sitting, I enjoyed my visit to Chicken Oil. Still, while obviously popular, the CFS felt like a bit of an afterthought at Chicken Oil. This really is a burger and fries joint and a darn good one at that.

http://www.dixiechicken.com/chickenoil/

Jax Grill - Houston, TX

2009-01-28T08:01:00.001-08:00

Located just south of I-10 on Sheperd is Jax Grill, mixed among several other well-known Houston culinary hot spots (Mission Burrito and Cadillac Bar). After a morning of exploring the city, Mrs. CFS, Tater Tot and myself popped in for a little homestyle goodness.

Jax Grill seems like more of a sports bar than restaurant (and the quality of the CFS reflects this). There is a wealth of sports related gear on the walls and several TVs for viewing of the pigskin. The menu appears geared towards this crowd with several “baskets” and “platters” of fried goodness.

CFS: OK. It was juicy and the tenderness of the meat was good. But, several bites tasted “off” and the odor was not pleasant (a big pet peeve of mine). This tended to ruin the experience a bit.
...A side tasting of Mrs. CFS’s CFC also didn’t impress. The chicken was juicy but the taste was a bit off and it didn’t have enough chicken flavor for my liking.

Breading: Nice – fluffy but crunchy. Southern style, it had a light brown color and held up well to the thick gravy. It did not stick particularly well to the steak, but I won’t complain since I can’t get mine to stick either.

Gravy: A very creamy white sauce. It was velvety and almost cheesy. It tasted fresh (in a diary way) but lacked a depth of flavor. It tasted as though too much heavy cream was used and not enough seasoning (although there was a hint of something subtle like tarragon).

Sides: The meal came with only French fries as a side. The fries were good – nicely salted and crispy. Abandoning my CFS, I discovered that the ketchup / gravy mix on the fries was a nice combo (…patent pending).

Price: $7.95 for lunch (it was listed as $8.45 on the big menu board, so perhaps the price came down or the lunch special was cheaper). For the amount of food, this was a good deal.

Service: Walk up counter service and orders picked up separately. This was efficient and the food came out quickly.

Music: Only the cacophony of the wait staff moving chairs and tables for the impending Texans game.

I’d probably go back to Jax Grill to watch a game or suck down some chicken wings. But, I’ll stay away from the CFS.

http://www.jax-grill.com/

1613 Shepherd Dr.Houston, TX 77007(713) 861-5529

Old Mill Inn - Dallas, TX

2009-01-14T06:14:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: Dallas

(Part II)

After a long day of learning and exploring at the museums of Fair Park with tater tot, we were hungry for sustenance. Fortunately, there is a Dallas institution a few steps from the museums and nestled in the heart of Fair Park. So, I talked Chicken Fried Family into a lunchtime visit (it wasn't hard).

The Old Mill Inn’s exterior resembles a quaint old mill and the inside reminds one of a large diner. We practically the only people in the restaurant and we got a great deal of attention from the welcoming staff.

The CFS: It was tough and overcooked. The meat was dense and hard to chew, like an old shoe. This made for an unpleasant bite.

Breading: Despite the toughness of the meat, the breading was good. Southern style with a nice deep brown color.

Gravy: A white, cream gravy. Nothing remarkable but it was a good compliment to the dish.
Knife: Standard kitchen knife provided, but given the density of the meat, something more on the order of a chainsaw was needed.

Sides: Choose two. I chose mashed potatoes (which were good but nothing special) and the black eyed peas. The black eyed peas were simply amazing. Of course, being close to New Years Day and being a Texan, it’s tradition to eat them. But, these rightfully should be eaten every day. They were cooked in a wonderful broth with ham (or ham hocks) giving the beans an amazing flavor.

Cost: $ 10.99. Not a bad price, if the meal was cooked properly.

Service: Superb! The staff, especially our waitress, were so friendly and exceptionally welcoming. Our waitress swapped stories about being a grandmother with Chicken Fried Mother and was friendly and gracious with the tot, even as he demanded macaroni and cheese.

Music Selection: None.

The Old Mill Inn is a treasure and worth a visit. I’d recommend it, but ask for your CFS to be cooked medium.

3611 Grand Avenue, Dallas.

Country Burger - Plano, TX

2009-01-07T07:43:00.000-08:00

Chicken Fried Road Trip: Dallas (Part 1)

I’ve driven by the Country Burger in my old hometown hundreds of time but had never eaten there. But, visiting over the holidays and a powerful hunger for CFS prompted me to stop in and (finally) try it. Chicken Fried Father joined me for the inaugural tasting.

The Country Burger is a neatly organized little place in the corner of a strip mall. Immediately the customers in line and the guy taking orders at the counter were friendly with us and we shared a joke about being out the house for the last time this holiday season. The décor was simple with a few booths and several long tables dotting the rather large restaurant.

The CFS: Juicy and tasty. It was a thinly pounded cube steak and it was well cooked.

Breading: The breading was thin and crispy – more central Texas style than the southern style I usually get around Houston. Troublingly, the breading had an odd “fishy” taste, almost as if they had fried up a mess of catfish before our CFSs and then fried our CFSs. The flavor of each bite was almost indistinguishable from a bite of catfish. This tended to ruin an otherwise tasty CFS.

(I should note that Chicken Fried Father enjoyed his CFS, although he unorthodoxly put jalapenos on his).

The gravy: Very good. Nice and peppery. White. It came in two little cups on the side so we could dole out the creamy goodness at our leisure. There was also a hint of an undefined herb: possibly sage or tarragon.

The sides: No choices – it came with French fries and Texas toast. The fries were really excellent: warm, salty and juicy. The Texas toast was amazing. It was fried on one side with butter but the other side was left uncooked. This made for an incredible bite with a nice crunch from one side and a soft chew on the other side. The sweet tea was also very nice.

Service: Table service. You’re assigned a vibrating / blinking device when your food is up. Everyone was very friendly and most welcoming.
Price: $6.99. A good deal.

I’d like to try Country Burger again (after they change the oil in the fryer, of course) – there are some neat items on the menu. It’s hard to find a good local CFS place but sometimes the right place has been there all along.

Dosey Doe - Woodlands, TX

2008-12-28T16:21:00.000-08:00

We came across the Dosey Doe by accident, desiring to see the legendary Joe Ely in concert. It turns out that the Dosey Doe is also a fine eating establishment in addition to a neat place to see a concert and get a fine cup of coffee. A visit from Chicken Fried Friends for the distinctly non-CFS holiday of Thanksgiving prompted us to visit the Dosey Doe and see Texas Trubador Shake Russell.

The Dosey Doe is a unique place and very neat. It is actually a transplanted barn – from their website:

Our Dining/Live Music Hall is a 150 year old barn from Kentucky. Hand Hewn (cut by axe instead of saw). It is made entirely of 300 year old growth Oak and Birch. The process of taking the barn down, re-raising it, and finishing it out took two and one half years.

Unique to say the least. The Dosey Doe is dotted inside with dozens of tin metal signs from the petroleum industry’s past and the food/road culture (including sodas made with bark and herbs).

The CFS: Overall, it was very good. The steak was well flattened, chewy and flavorful. It was moist, but not too moist, but this unfortunately added to the soggy factor.

Breading: Southern style. Really southern fried chicken style. The breading was thin like you’d find on fried chicken. Although the gravy was thin (see below), the thin breading got a bit soggy because it was so thin.

Gravy: Classic and excellent. Like a traditional gravy should be, white gravy had strong notes of both white and black pepper. It was very thin but it was only modestly applied. Perhaps there wasn’t enough, but the quality certainly made up for the quality.

Knife: A sizable steak knife was provided but probably not needed! The steak was thin, the breading was thin and the gravy was thin.

Sides: No options – it came with mashed potatoes and “summer vegetables” (which were green beans, zucchini and pearl onions). The mashed potatoes were very good – garlicy and smooth. The veg were also very nice, especially the pearl onions which were a nice touch. I didn’t particularly like that it was served underneath the CFS (see picture) because this caused the potatoes and veg to blend together and make the bottom of the CFS mushy. (also try the Bourbon Pecan Pie – it was fantastic).

Cost: $16.00. So, a bit higher than average but the quality of the food and the experience was worth the price.

Service: Not great. The tables on the main floor are long and all connected together (think Cambridge eating club style). This appears to create a bit of havoc with the wait staff (and apparently the kitchen – our appetizer came out after our main course and a food runner tried to give us a meal that wasn’t ours). But, after dinner was sorted out, our waiter was constantly on the spot with additional whiskey and Coke orders.

Music Selection: Nothing during dinner, but Shake Russell was the live entertainment.

Figuring out whether or not people would go to the Dosey Doe for great music or great food would be folly – both are great and it is always a fun time. They’ve got a great formula and I hope it stays that way.

http://doseydoescoffeeshop.com/

CFS Homestead - Humble, TX

2008-12-08T09:04:00.000-08:00

As a special holiday treat, I decided to bring my knowledge of CFS to our own CFS Test Kitchens! What follows is a (rough) recipe for my first homemade CFS. And, because she doesn’t trust me to diagnose my own illness, Mrs. CFS reviews the final product below.

Breading: The powder consisted of a cup of flour, and a tablespoon each of fresh ground cumin, fresh ground pepper, Kosher salt and white pepper. The liquid was a cup of buttermilk and a cup of heavy cream. I double dipped the steaks (liquid, roux, liquid, roux).

Steak: Cube steaks I bought at H.E.B. It would have been smart for me to retenderize the meat that wasn’t as perforated as it needed to be. I poured about an inch of vegetable oil into a pan (heated to 350 degrees) and tenderly slipped in the meat. I turned the meat part of the way through which, unfortunately, stripped off some of the breading.

Gravy: One cup of buttermilk and one cup of heavy cream. One teaspoon of fresh cumin, two tablespoons of white pepper, a teaspoon of Kosher salt, a teaspoon of garlic and onion powder, a pinch of smoked paprika and a few grinds of black cracked pepper.

I periodically added a pinch of the flour roux from the breading and …whisk, whisk, whisk until it is at the consistency you want (I like it the consistency of a pea soup).

The side was a roasted garlic (about 3 cut up cloves), brussel sprouts and carrot medley. A little salt, pepper, a drizzle of vegetable oil put under a broiler on low for about 30 minutes.

Happy holidays and I hope you enjoy!

**************************************

MRS’S CFS REVIEW

Because, as we all know, chefs notoriously overrate or underrate their own cuisine, this is Mrs. CFT’s review of the CFS created by the Chicken-Fried Texan. Overall, the CFS was a good start and Mrs. CFT is hopeful that the dish will be repeated in the CFT household.

The use of buttermilk and white pepper in the gravy left the CFT kitchen smelling great and boded well for the actual CFS. Tater Tot assisted in the preparation of the gravy but Mrs. CFT was not privy to all of the secret ingredients therein.

The meal also was completed very quickly and proved itself to be a tenable weeknight treat.
Steak: A little tough. We used steak knives, though an ordinary one probably would have worked.

Breading: Tasted great, but did not stick well all over the CFS. The taste was nice and peppery, and the breading was crisp but not burnt. Given that CFT does not own a deep fryer, the ability to create a perfect breading might have been but a dream. He tried mightily, and though only ¾ of my steak was actually breaded, the breading itself had great flavor and I am confident that with practice CFT will achieve the full breading required.

Gravy: The gravy was by far the best I’ve had in the CFS realm. Wish they had this gravy at some of the other places we’ve visited. It was peppery, but not too peppery, had good consistency and was plentiful.

Service: …with a smile, and a well-paired beer. Can’t complain.

Side: The CFS was served with a side of roasted vegetables (carrots and brussel sprouts). The veg was nicely seasoned and a nice accompaniment to the CFS. The carrots were nicely roasted and soft but not too soft. The sprouts were flavorful and matched well with the carrots. Though I expected an okra component given the CFT’s predilections, this was a nice, healthy alternative that was both flavorful and filling.

Overall, I enjoyed the at-home CFS experience, and I hope it becomes a more frequent one.

Lenox Bar-B-Q - Houston, TX

2008-11-26T10:39:00.000-08:00

I came across Lenox BBQ on a recommendation from my virtual friend Texas Chef (http://texas-chef.blogspot.com/). I must say, without his help, I’m certain I wouldn’t have found it! Lenox BBQ is a classic hole-in-the-wall barbeque joint tucked into the east side of the city. It’s a little hidden but there’s a welcoming sign signaling where to get come good barbeque (which I missed as I drove past it).

Inside, Lenox is a living piece of history with the menu on huge plastic posters. The tables are covered with a classic red-checkered tablecloth. There is a great homey feel. Not surprisingly, even at 11:00, the place was filling up with lunch goers (including two of Harris County’s finest, demonstrating that we all made a good choice since cops know where to eat).

The CFS: Pretty good. It was chewy and had a good amount of give. It tasted of a nice quality cube steak and was tasty.

Breading: It was a bit dry and tasted a bit pre-made. It didn’t appear to be hand formed or have been fried fresh. This isn’t ideal, of course, but the thick shell held up to the gravy nicely and kept each bit together.

Gravy: Very good. Just what gravy should be: smoky, rich, peppery and creamy. It came on the side in a little bowl (which I’m becoming a bigger fan of the more I try it).

Knife: Something bigger than a standard knife would have been good but there was only one option in the little bin of utensils.

Sides: There was a list of 6-7 and I chose fried okra and the greens. The okra was tasty – a bit more buttery than other kinds I’ve had. The greens were good but I didn’t care for them. It’s not because they weren’t good (even though it could have used a bit of salt and heat) – it’s because, as much as I try, I can’t grow to like them.

Cost: Simply great. $6.45 for the “dinner” platter (plus $1.30 for a tasty large lemonade).

Service: Just great. Exactly what you’d expect from a local neighborhood joint. The staff were friendly and efficient and were most welcoming (even when the place was pretty busy).

Music Selection: None. Just the whirr of traffic on Harrisburg.

I’m going to go back to Leonx, but probably not for the CFS. I plan to try the CFS sandwich, which seems like a good use of the CFS that was tasty but not terrific on its own. If you’re ever in the Second Ward, stop in and try it but don’t let the outside fool you.

http://www.lenoxbbqcatering.com/

CFS, Texas Monthly and You

2008-11-21T17:56:00.000-08:00

Texas Monthly has run a neat article featuring the "40 Best Small Town Cafes": http://www.texasmonthly.com/magazine/smalltowncafes. Clearly such a list can produce serious (but yummy) debates, but anything that leads to eating more chicken fried foods can't be a bad exercise.

There's a handy link to Google maps so you can find a joint close to you. Chain places will not appear.

Enjoy.

Barbecue Inn -- Houston, TX

2008-11-15T14:27:00.000-08:00

You can smell the Barbecue Inn for a few blocks away – like a hickory smoked trail leading you to paradise. You’re not just smelling the smoke for the barbeque, you’re also smelling a little piece of Houston history.

Barbecue Inn is a really neat diner that is very comfortable. It has a diner feel (complete with lunch counter and pie window box) but some modern updates like iconic Texas and Houston images etched into glass separating tables. You sink deep in to the red benches and feel instantly at home.

The CFS: Juicy and well done. Cubed steak was the meat, although they were a bit small (it actually came in two steaks). The consistency was perfect and the bite gave just enough resistance.

Breading: Flaky and crunchy (southern style). Held up to the gravy nicely. It did not have enough flavor, compounded by the fact that the gravy didn’t have much punch.

Gravy: Not great. It was bland and white. Not much flavor, requiring me to execute two rounds of salt and pepper to make it to my liking. The gravy was served on the CFS (they didn’t ask if I wanted it otherwise).

Knife size: Standard knife given and used. But, really, something more on the order of a steak knife would have been more appropriate.

Sides: No choices. It comes with a salad (lettuce and tomato) and French fries. Neither were great, but the salad hit the spot and the fries were fresh, hot and useful for soaking up extra gravy.

Cost: $10.75. A bit high considering the sides weren't great. But, the portions were significant.

Service: Great. The waitresses are from a bygone era where you were called “hon” regardless of your age and everyone makes you feel welcome. This compliments the comfort of the place perfectly.

Music selection: Musac’ed hits from the 1980s (Solsbury Hill “by” Peter Gabriel was a favorite of Mrs. CFS).

I’m sure I’ll go back to the Barbecue Inn but I’m not sure I’ll order the CFS again. The menus indicate “Serving Houston Since 1946.” Here’s hoping for at least another 60 years.

116 W. Crosstimbers, Houston

Humble City Café (Revisit) – Humble, TX

2008-11-03T05:21:00.000-08:00

Most qualified and conscientious restaurant reviewers visit the same location several times before writing their food columns. Being neither qualified and conscientious, I have already written about the Old Humble Café. A visit by Chicken Fried In-Laws inspired us to sample a little chicken fried goodness.

This round, I decided to try the Chicken Fried Chicken (but insisted Chicken Fried Wife get the CFS so I could taste it again).

The CFC: The chicken was pounded flat and fried up. I frankly prefer having the full chicken breast without the pillard which I think makes it juicier. Still, it was moist and tasty.

The Breading: Like the CFS, the breading was thin but crunchy. The style was the same and was pretty tasty.

The Gravy: Too much! The CFC was swimming in the stuff. It made it a bit soggy. (although our waiter did ask if I wanted it on the side or not). Again, it was creamy and smooth, but the flavor was a bit bland (I allowed myself to add salt and pepper).

The Knife: Something involved like a steak knife was again required (a standard kitchen knife not workable here). If nothing else, it helped cut through the gravy.

The Sides: Mashed potatoes and fried okra. The potatoes were lumpy and thick. The flavor was a bit bland again, possibly because the same gravy was spread over it (our waiter asked if I wanted it on or off). The okra was awful – just awful. Cold and soggy, nothing like the fried okra I know and love.

So, when more company comes to town, I think I’ll recommend the CFS over the CFC at Humbe City Cafe. And, for pete’s sake, go easy on that gravy.

http://humblecitycafe.com/

Grandy's - Plano, TX

2008-10-13T05:56:00.000-07:00

No doubt you’ve seen the welcoming green awning beckoning you to a Grandy’s restaurant. Most major (and a few minor) intersections in north Texas have a Grandy’s. Grandy’s is a good concept that didn’t seem to catch on: essentially home style fast food. Sort of Cracker Barrell meets McDonalds.

The place is basically a cafeteria-style restaurant, in both food and décor. The decoration is minimal (and faded badly in the one we went to). Booths and tables with swivel chairs line the broad dining room. The one we visited needed a quick cleaning as everything around was sticky. We retrieved a damp paper towel from the restroom and pressed on.

The CFS: It was thin but tasty. The meat was not something I’ve encountered: chopped meat formed into a “steak.” This made it very tender. It would be a stretch to call this “Southern style” since it was probably pre-made and frozen, but the style was a cross between a kind of central Texas snitzel and a southern style with heavy breading.

As a side tasting, Mrs. CFT had the Chicken Fried Chicken and it was very good. The chicken was plump and juicy, although the breading was the same.

The Breading: Very thin. Like mozzarella stick thin. It didn’t provide much resistance to the tenderness of the CFS making the whole thing a bit mushy.

The Gravy: White and a bit tasteless. But, in balance all together, it wasn’t bad. They didn’t give me the option for having it on the side.

Knife: Because the “steak” was chopped, the plastic knife that it came with was more than sufficient to cut the CFS. The plastic fork was really enough.

Sides: The dinner price came with two. I chose the okra, which was hot and fresh. The mashed potatoes (lovingly dropped onto the plate with an ice cream scoop), which were some form of instant, covered in gravy but with a good potato flavor. I almost broke out the little salt and pepper packs that came with the flatware but it didn’t really need it. Mrs. CFT had the French fries – they were tasty but very cold – and the cole slaw – which was cold enough but too vinegary and crunchy to be very good.

The Price: An AMAZING $2.99. Fortuitously, Tuesday is the chicken fried steak dinner day, featuring a minimal price on the CFS dinner. Still, you get what you pay for.

Service: Counter walk up. We went late in the day, so there was no line and things moved quickly. The buffet lights were bright and hot and there was no line for all you can eat okra. “Silverware” was plastic and came in a little bag. Cafeteria style all the way.

This is not the best CFS you will ever have. It may, however, be the fastest. In a way, it’s probably unfair to include Grandy’s on a list of good CFS joints. Still, it was a decent meal and service was quick.

2240 Coit Road

Plano, TX 75075

www.grandys.com

Cracker Barrell - Houston, TX

2008-09-24T13:01:00.001-07:00

The Cracker Barrel is as ubiquitous to road travelers as bluebonnets in spring, highway patrol in August along I-45, the winds of west Texas and humidity in Houston.

Most of you have been to a Cracker Barrel and most of them are basically the same. There is a little "general store" at the entrance full of knickknacks, clothes and candies (including something called a “nut roll”).

Mrs. CFS challenged me to a game of skill with one of those little “peg hop” games, but I declined (knowing when I was over matched).

As most of them are, the one we visited was filled with tin signs, old clocks, antique rifles and framed, old pictures of distant relatives (many of which appeared to be for sale since there were price tags on them). It felt a bit contrived, especially since we were in the middle of Houston, not in rural Missouri, but we went with it. It’s hard to successfully replicate that old timey look.

The CFS: It wasn't particularly good overall but oddly no piece by itself was particularly bad. The steak itself (ground round) was tender. But, the flavors didn't mesh particularly well together.

The Breading: "Southern style" in origin but it was a bit thin. It was a bit like fried chicken in its consistency, so it wasn’t really crispy enough to give the CFS that great difference in texture (or hold up to the heavy gravy). Perhaps a bit oversalted (complimenting the undersalted gravy!).

The Gravy: Heavy and a little bland. This was strange because there was a meaty taste as well as some of that meat (bacon?) in the gravy. It had an odd sweet taste that I couldn't quite place. Interestingly, they have a "brown" gravy which they offer on the mashed potatoes but only the "white" gravy was offered on the CFS. Frankly, the "brown" would have been preferred.

A side tasting of Mrs. CFS's chicken fried chicken was actually surprisingly good; much better than the CFS. For some reason the gravy which wasn't too good meshed much better with the sweetness of the chicken than the meatiness of the steak. She wasn't that happy that I ate most of her dinner, but, for the good of the blog, she acquiesced.

The Knife: standard knife fine here.

The Sides: Three are chosen with the dinner menu; I chose fried okra, mashed potatoes (having a bit of a hankering that evening) and green beans (a rare foray into a non-fried vegetable). The fried okra was awful! (and coming from me you know it must have been bad). It was cold when it reached the table and was clearly pre-frozen and refried (perhaps earlier that afternoon). The mashed potatoes were good (with "brown" gravy), skins on and were lumpy. The green beans were a bit soggy but I liked them. Sort of reminded me of how my grandmother makes them; rich, chicken and bacon tasting beans -- frankly, you can't really even taste the beans.

The tot (who accompanied) enjoyed the macaroni and cheese, but he, like me with okra, is not discriminating when it comes to the M&C.

The Cost: $8.99 (with three sides). A pretty good bargain.

The Service: Competent and helpful, if not a little distant. Perhaps our 4:30 dinner threw them. She flirted with the tot and checked on us regularly.

Music selection: Cracker Barrel’s own inspired tunes – mostly older bluegrass and older country (we heard some Hank Williams, a favorite of mine).

There is something that draws people to the Cracker Barrel – the fact that it was pretty crowded at 4:30 pm on a Sunday made that clear. May it is nostalgia, cheap knickknacks, a clean bathroom or a pre-assembled rocking chair for the road (see picture). Perhaps there is something deeper, where travelers are looking to recapture something lost from ages ago when most all roadhouses and restaurants were like the Cracker Barrel. But, times have changed (for the most part). There are plenty of good road places to amble into to find a nice heaping plate of CFS, bottomless iced tea and a waitress to call you “hon.” You may have to look a little harder but they are still around (and most are not incorporated).

Saltgrass Steak House - Houston, TX

2008-09-12T08:10:00.000-07:00

“Texas to the Bone” is what their napkins say about Saltgrass Steakhouse. Well, any place that serves chicken fried steak is at least a little bit Texas. The “…to the bone” label should be a limited classification for places were Sam Houston drank whiskey from a jug or where Lyndon Johnson stuffed a ballot box.

Saltgrass has done a fine job of approximating what people thing a Texas restaurant is like, but they have done so a bit like a casino in Las Vegas. You know what I mean: huge hotels created to look like Venice, New York or Camelot. In truth, it’s a bit of a sham – a sort of Bennigan’s with Texas-themed junk instead of stuff you might find in your garage. This thing might sell well in California, Wisconsin or Florida, where Texas is more myth than reality, but IN Texas, it’s just a little awkward.

To the food. The meals (even lunch) come with a very nice Shiner Bock beer bread (… this does border on “Texas to the Bone”) that was just what beer bread should be: creamy, sweet and nutty. A little butter made it a very nice start to the meal.

The CFS: It was tasty and rich. The meat was a nice, tender sirloin that had good give when bitten but enough resistance to make the texture of each bite interesting. The balance of flavors was strong (garlicy) but not overwhelming. The menu bragged it was “thicker than the rest” – it was not! Not that thickness equates to taste in CFS (so the boast didn’t make much sense to me).

The Breading: “Southern style.” Such chain restaurants (see review for the Black Eyed Pea) tend to go in this direction (which I personally like). I haven’t been to a commercial place where the style was more west or central Texas style. The breading was a bit thin and I couldn’t manage to keep the top and bottom crust for each bite. (weep not for me, I did manage to clean my plate).

The gravy: Rich, creamy and, if eaten in a blind tasting, was reminiscent of chicken soup. Full chicken, onion and garlic flavors were present. The flavor gravy really dominated the whole dish, but not in a bad way.

Knife size: The plate came with a larger steak knife, but it really wasn’t necessary. A smaller knife would have been fine.

Sides: Pick one (for lunch). I was in the mood for some mashed potatoes (and the other sides didn’t particularly appeal to me), so I ordered the “garlic mashed potatoes.” Like the gravy / CFS combo, the flavors were strong (garlic) but in proper balance. It was a nice compliment to the CFS.

Cost: $8.99 on the lunch menu.

Service: Quick. Very quick. Perhaps too quick. I had the kind of waitress who answers her own questions after asked (“How’s your steak? Good.” “More iced tea? No problem.”). Overall, things moved quickly and I was in and out in a hurry.

Music selection: new country.

It always troubles me when attempts to make something “authentic” go overboard. Such was the case here. Still, it was a good meal and worth a trip.

17275 Tomball Parkway; In the Willowbrook Plaza

http://www.saltgrass.com/

Goodson's Cafe - Tomball, TX

2008-09-01T08:26:00.000-07:00

Billboards all over Waller and north Harris County proclaim Goodson's Cafe as the "Best Chicken Fried Steak in Texas." It is certainly not the only place that makes such a claim, but here it comes close to being true.

Goodson's Cafe was a neat and eclectic little place. It was true to the “café” name: a big menu with a range of standards (including appetizers, lunch, dinner and desserts). Tables were covered with that plastic tablecloths and there were baskets of toys around for recreation (for the tots, I suppose). The meal started with some warm biscuits with a nice gravy in a side dish.

The CFS: I was warned. She warned me. When I ordered the CFS, our waitress asked "Are you sure?" Teased and interested, I indicated I was sure (even though I wasn't sure). The CFS was amazing. Just amazing. True southern style, thick and juicy (surolin). It was a MAJOR piece of meat -- as big as I've seen. …or I thought it was a single: after eating a few bites, I discovered it was actually two pieces! Regardless, it was too much for me. Grilled onions were also offered to top the CFS (alas, but declined), something I hadn’t encountered before.

Breading: Thick and flaky. Very tasty. Clearly made with some buttermilk, it was double dipped, a nice amount of pepper and lumpy as all get out.

Gravy: Smooth, camel colored and creamy. A rich, caramel and flavorful bounty. It came on the side (our waitress didn't ask how we wanted the gravy served). Our waitress offered (without us asking) to bring an extra bowl of gravy and I'm glad she did. I actually didn't think I'd like spooning out gravy to my CFS per bite, but I really liked it. It allowed for portion control and let the CFS stay crispy.

Knife size: You need something major to attack this beast. The CFS came with a standard knife -- truly inadequate for the job. I thought about going next door to the pawn shop to buy something more substantial.

Sides: Dish came with two. I had the fried okra (no surprise) and the cole slaw. I'm easy with okra, so my standards are low. But these weren't so good: the okra was a little soggy and probably pre-packaged. The cole slaw was awful. Everything was chopped too small and the balance of creaminess, cabbage and carrots (the three c's) . There was an unpleasant hint of garlic in it too -- made it smell a little off and left an odd aftertaste. Mrs. Chicken Fried Texan had the mashed potato (which was nice but was a little dry, a nice potato flavor (with skins)) and corn (tasted canned).

Cost: Large (which I had) was $9.29 and the small is $7.99. An amazing bargain given the amount of food. If you’re interested, the grilled onions on top were an extra $0.79.

Service. This wasn't her first rodeo or her first CFS. She sized me up and knew she'd be taking that plate away nearly full (see picture). She was friendly, had an easy charm, got the food out fast and flirted with the tot (who returned in kind).

Music selection: adult contempo.

The "Best Chicken Fried Steak in Texas" can't be a self-given label. Indeed, Goodson's Cafe's "Best CFS" was proclaimed as such by the "Eyes of Texas," which were last recorded in the late 1990s. So, it's been a while since the label was affixed to their CFS. Best in Texas? I can't say. The biggest?: perhaps. Best bargain?: certainly the top 10. It’s worth a drive out to Tomball to see for yourself.

The Black Eyed Pea - Houston, TX

2008-08-22T07:10:00.000-07:00

OK, OK, the review should be called “A” Black Eyed Pea since it’s not like it is an original. Just your ordinary, run of the mill Black Eyed Pea you’d find at most any intersection of Any City, Texas and Regular Road. Chain restaurants aren’t regularly Chicken Fried Texan’s preferred choice of diner, but the Black Eyed Pea is a Texas tradition. And, I don’t mind admitting to you, loyal Chicken Fried friends, that the BEP is where I developed my taste for fried okra, fried corn and, of course, CFS when I was a tot.

This Pea was pretty much like any other, complete with countrified (but modern) décor and fake plants like at grandma’s house.

In fact, the meal starts out a bit like at grandma’s, with a basket of rolls and cornbread. Mrs. Chicken Fried Steak and tater tot accompanied me, scarfing a roll before I could snap a picture of the full basket. The rolls were tasty with a light buttery top but were otherwise forgettable. I had forgotten how much I liked the cornbread, which is baked with corn niblets in it, giving it a nice a juicy crunch when you take a bite (tot agreed and ate all that was in our basket, forcing me to eat only crumbs).

The CFS: I must say I was prepared to hate it but ended up liking it. The first bite was warm and crunchy. The steak (sirloin) was nicely cooked, was juicy and was tender. It still had the right amount of “give” so that the texture of each bite nicely complimented the breading.

A side tasting of Mrs. CFT’s chicken fried chicken demonstrated a similar tasty quality. Same breading. Same gravy. The chicken was nice and moist, giving a great balance to the crunch of the breading.

Breading: Also nice. It was “southern style,” which is most of what you find in CFS in East Texas. I’m guessing you’d find the same at other Black Eyed Peas in other parts of Texas; more like fried chicken than her pan-fried West Texas CFS cousin. The breading had a nice punch to it, made with what tasted like a little buttermilk. A nice amount of pepper and good crunch.

Gravy: Not so nice. A bit like library paste (but runnier). There was really no taste to it, surprising since the whole CFS was pretty tasty. It was thin and utterly forgettable. No option for having it on the side was given.

Knife: Standard knife fine here.

Sides: Reminiscing about childhood visits to other Black Eyed Peas, I ordered my two favorites: fried okra and fried corn. The okra was as perfect and scrumptious as I remember it. They were hot, fresh and had that great “just fried” look. My mouth is still burned from popping too dangerously many in my mouth at once. The fried corn was nice but belied her potential. The corn was a bit soggy (frozen?) and the fried breading fell off too easily before an adequate bite could be had. Still, I must give big Chicken Fried props to them for deep frying as many vegetables as possible. Mrs. CFT has the mashed potatoes (which were lumpy, creamy and very nice) and the French fries (not fresh cut but tasty, with a nice sweet/savory spice on them that had hints of cinnamon, clove, paprika and pepper).

Price: $8.99 for the “Texas-Sized” Chicken Fried Steak (sizes for other states were not offered). Actually, a really good bargain for the amount and quality of food you get.

The service was competent, corporate and by the book. A bit cold and distant, but I wasn’t looking for a long-term relationship. Since the tot was with us, it was nice to have pretty consistent help, including crayons (not to be eaten, we reminded the tot), coloring placemat and child-size milk.

The Black Eyed Pea is as iconic to Texas as dead armadillos, fire ants, traffic, the heat (my God, the heat), underfunded schools, miles and miles of highways, Kinky Freidman, and snakes in your garage. And, like those things, we can’t ignore it (even if we wanted to). These are all part of Texas and we must embrace all that is ironic and contradictory about our fine state. So, instead of snickering your way past your neighborhood Black Eyed Pea on your way home, stop in for an iced tea, a CFS and remember what your grandma told you: “if you can’t say anything nice, stuff another piece of cornbread in your mouth.”

Humble City Cafe - Humble, TX

2008-08-15T13:53:00.000-07:00

“Slow food” advocates argue that food should be produced and consumed close to home. It made enough sense to me (certainly the consumption side) to drive a few miles to a quaint little café close to my house. Humble City Café (www.humblecitycafe.com), located in downtown Humble, resembles hundreds of other neat little small town, county courthouse- adjacent, (sweet) iced tea brewing cafes in towns all across Texas. The food, décor and hospitality certainly equal those kinds of places, despite being only minutes from the fourth largest city in the country.

The location, building and interior décor look like a flashback to an old roadhouse. The room is big but inviting. Tables are good sized (enough for an open newspaper, a plate of CFS and an icy beverage). The presence of Humble Oil signs and the Texas flag remind diners of the storied history of the area. Reminiscent of a Cracker Barrel, there is a little county store that sells trinkets, old-fashioned candy and homemade root beer.

To start the meal, they bring a perfect little cast iron singlet of cornbread – soft, moist and just the right amount of crumble. Accompanying the cornbread were two kinds of butter, a plain butter and a honey-infused butter. I probably should have objectively tried both, but, frankly, the honey butter was so good I couldn’t stop eating it. There was nice texture to the honey butter (ground nuts, perhaps?) and it came frozen, making it the prefect consistency to slice some off and let it melt pleasantly into the warm cornbread.

The CFS: Very good. Very big. The picture in no way does this bad boy justice (I had to step back from my chair to snap this photo). To be fair, I did order the larger of the two size options – still, I had no idea of the Flintstonian slab of meat that would emerge. Still, it was tasty through and through. It was nice and tender with just the right consistency to make each bite substantial.

Breading: Crispy and flaky. It was nice and lumpy, showing somebody took care to shape it by hand and fry it up nice and crispy. A crispy breading like this is important because it has to stand up to the gravy and keep the texture of the meat intact.

Gravy: Smooth and creamy. My waitress asked whether I wanted it or not (does anyone ever say no?) and it came to the table smothering that tender giant of a steak. Hints of pepper but nothing overpowering. Again, I like a little more kick and a little more salt, so I would have liked more of both.

Knife: A standard kitchen knife won’t do here. A serrated steak knife came suggestively tucked under the steak, hinting one could be wise to use it.

Sides: Select two. I chose fried okra (a personal weakness of mine) and the cole slaw. The okra was divinely delicious – so hot and fresh that my progressive popping of 2-3 in my mouth at a time was unwise (but so satisfying). The cole slaw was also excellent. The thing most nice about it was the ratio of cabbage to carrot: the cabbage was sliced into longer strips and the carrot were in small flacks, allowing the cabbage to shine. The creaminess was spot on and the little dish they give you wasn’t enough for me.

Cost: $12.99 (with two sides). $10.99 if you want the smaller size (and plan to eat again anytime in the next week).

The service was excellent. Friendly, fast and perhaps a bit freaked that I was (1) taking pictures of my lunch and (2) in for lunch at 10:50 (hey, I’m a busy and hungry man).

Make a trip to Humble for this. Seriously.

Willy Ray's Bar-B-Q - Beaumont, TX

2008-08-11T09:00:00.000-07:00

Who orders chicken fried steak at a barbeque place? Answer: The Chicken Fried Texan.

Willy Ray’s Bar-B-Q in Beaumont was voted as one of Texas Monthly’s 50 best barbeque joints. The place is quaint and smaller inside than it looks outside. It’s a bit of a maze to get to (what isn’t in Beaumont?) but worth a trip.

To the main event: chicken fried steak. The steak itself was juicy and tender, making it easy to cut and nice to chew (some can take serious choppers). It had taken a nice pounding to make it nice and flat.

Breading: The breading was nice but not too thick. (Since this is my first post, I should note to my faithful readers that CFT prefers a thicker breading).

Gravy: on the side. This isn’t too common, but maybe it is an East Texas thing. I didn’t really like the gravy much. It was too bland and needed a kick of something to give it some shoulders.

Knife size: small. It was thin enough to use a standard knife. Despite her east Texas location, leave the Bowie knife at home.

Sides: the dish came with two – I had cole slaw and corn (off the cob). The cole slaw was really bland and needed a shot of vinegar and a little more creaminess to make it stick to CFT’s ribs. The corn was simply great – it was probably canned (too perfectly cut to be fresh) but had a great flavor. There were hints of bacon and red peppers. The tater tot loved it, and if you can get a tot to eat corn, you know you’re doing something right. Mrs. CFT had French fries, which were very well seasoned, hot and fresh.

Cost: About $10.00 (including two sides and a drink). A little on the high side, but fame has it’s price.

The service was a bit sub par. There was confusion at the front of the house (felt like the very nice woman taking our orders was new). The twice-baked potato ordered for the tot never arrived. CFT’s CFS took an extra five minutes to arrive (the cook missed it: good news in a way because it was clearly made to order). But, despite these slips, the staff couldn’t have been nicer and more welcoming – it really felt like a neighborhood joint where you could get comfortable, with no hint of arrogance, despite the coronation from Texas Monthly as barbeque royalty.

Music selection: oldies.

Overall, a nice place and an enjoyable visit. But, as far as the chicken fried side goes, stick to barbeque at Willy Ray’s.